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411 REFERENCE · Wikibooks

Sewing/Fabric

Reference material by Wikibooks contributors. This retains its source identity and is not 411 news reporting.

450px|right|Variety of fabric. From the left: evenweave cotton, velvet, printed cotton, calico, felt, satin, silk, hessian, polycotton. Terms Face the right side of the fabric Selvage finished edges, the end point of the weft Raw edge unfinished edges, the end point of the warp Grain the direction of the nap Nap Bias Warp the vertical threads of woven fabric Weft the horizontal threads of woven fabric Bolt Sizing Preparing Fabric Always wash and press all fabric before sewing with it, making sure to follow directions given on the bolt for that particular fabric. New fabric will usually shrink a certain amount and may have been treated with sizing. Washing prior to working with a fabric will also reduce the amount of dye transfer from a finished item Marking of patterns must be done on quite flat (well-pressed) fabric, as creases will distort the shape of the chalked pattern. Types of Fabric There are two groups of fabric, natural and synthetic. Synthetic fabrics are man made, while natural fabrics are either from a animal protein, like silk or wool, or a plant fiber, like cotton or linen. Fabrics can either be knit, or woven. Natural fibers Natural fibers are known to be more expensive than synthetic, but can drape beautifully and keep one cool in a way that synthetic fabrics often cannot. Cotton Muslin It is recommended that beginner in sewing get started with a cheap natural fiber such as cotton muslin. This is un-dyed unbleached cotton that is useful for making mock-ups and undergarments. It is a woven fabric so it has little stretch. Cotton Jersey Cotton jersey is a knit fabric. It is stretchy, soft, and does not wrinkle or pucker. It is another good beginner fabric, however it can be pricy. Its often used for activewear. Cotton Flannel Cotton Flannel is a warm, soft, medium weight fabric. Its weave is loosely spun. It's good for cold weather clothing. Linen A type of woven fabric made out of the flax plant. Very good for keeping cool in summer. Wool Wool is a protein fabric made from the hair/fleece of camels, goats, alpacas and other animals. It's very good for cold weather.