Weatherization/Installing or replacing doors and windows

Installing or replacing doors and windows When choosing new doors and windows: Replace solid core external doors with metal-clad, foam-core doors or fiberglass doors. Replace drafty single-glazed windows with efficient, low-E, double-glazed, insulated windows. Krypton is more insulating than argon, but windows with krypton cost more. Avoid metal-framed windows. Replace steel or aluminum windows with a wood, vinyl, or fiberglass windows. If you must buy a metal-framed window for some specific reason, make sure that there is a thermal break separating the inner half from the outer half. If you can't afford new double-glazed windows, keep your existing windows, and install year-round storm windows on the outside. You can open them and insert a bug screen in the warmer months. Alternatively, you can shrink-wrap polyethylene on the windows in the colder months with a hair dryer to trap air, you can install low-E film on the window panes, or you can install an "interior insulating window". In the attic, install double-glazed windows with built-in venting around the frame, so that you can close the windows in cold weather without stopping air from flowing through the attic. When installing new doors and windows: Seal the gap between the window casing or nailing flange and the sheathing by applying a bead of exterior-grade caulk before attaching the window to the framing studs. Seal the gap between the window or door framing and the framing studs (the rough opening). Make sure new windows and doors have drip caps (flashing) above them to keep water away. If there are no drip caps, install them while installing the windows or doors. Be aware that all multi-pane windows will eventually lose their air-tight seal. Fog that appears on the interior of the window (between the layers of glazing) is an indication of leakage.