HKDSE Geography/M2b/Waves

Waves start out as ripples in the sea, which are created as winds blow over water. Water moves in an orbital motion to form waves. As waves approach shore, they will be deformed as the seabed rises.They break when their orbit comes in contact with the sea bed. After breaking, the water continues to rush up the shore as swash, and thereafter rush down the shore as backwash. Load may be deposited by swash; beach materials may be eroded by backwash. Constructive Waves vs. Destructive Waves PropertyConstructive WavesDestructive Waves Property of Waves Wave heightLowerTaller WavelengthLongerShorter Wave frequencyLowerHigher VelocityLowerHigher Wave gradientGentlerSteeper Energy SwashStrongerWeaker BackwashWeakerStronger Dominant ProcessDepositionErosion Wave energyWeakerStronger Shape of the coast Depth of the seabedShallowerDeeper Position of breakerFarther away from the coastNearer to the coast Shore gradientGentlerSteeper Breaker typeSpilling breakerPlunging breaker