1970s in fashion

none December 2022 thumb|upright=1|right|In 1971 hotpants, long sideburns and bell-bottomed trousers were popular fashion trends thumb|upright|Diane von Fürstenberg's wrap dress, designed in the 1970s Fashion in the 1970s was about individuality. In the early 1970s, Vogue proclaimed "There are no rules in the fashion game now"http://www.oxfam.org.uk/fashion-blog/2016/09/1970s-revival 1970's Revival – Fashion blog Oxfam GB 5 December 2017 https://web.archive.org/web/20170924001527/http://www.oxfam.org.uk/fashion-blog/2016/09/1970s-revival 24 September 2017 dead due to overproduction flooding the market with affordable synthetic clothing. Common items included mini skirts, bell-bottoms popularized by hippies, vintage clothing from the 1950s and earlier, and the androgynous glam rock and disco styles that introduced platform shoes, bright colors, glitter, and satin.http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Troubled-Times-1961-79.html Troubled Times: 1961–79 27 July 2014 Many societal trends of the 1960s grew stronger in the 1970s and continued to influence fashion, with women having discarded cumbersome and uncomfortable undergarments by the early 1970s, including bras,Morris Bernadine The Directions of the Innovators The New York Times 1983-02-27 132 https://www.nytimes.com/1983/02/27/magazine/the-directions-of-the-innovators.html 2022-04-04 The first to go were the girdles and panty girdles that always served a dual function: to hold in the figure and hold up the stockings. Spurred by the women's liberation movement and a sense of symmetry, bras also vanished. So did slips, petticoats and, for many women, underpants. and overall favoring more comfort and mobility in dress and in life than had been the norm as recently as the 1950s.Morris Bernadine The Romans Didn't Waste Any Time About Shorts The New York Times 1971-02-06 18 https://www.nytimes.com/1971/02/06/archives/the-romans-didnt-waste-any-time-about-shorts.html 2022-04-04 You couldn't wear...shorts...in the streets...20 years ago [1951]...because women all had heavy foundation garments on... Decades-old standards of formality continued to be relaxed or dispensed with,Mount, jr. Roy Will the 'Retro' Look Make It? The New York Times 1979-01-01 18 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/01/01/archives/fashion-will-the-retro-look-make-it-affluence-and-leisure.html 2021-12-08 In the 1970's...[s]portswear emerged as the dominant theme, implying a relaxed fit and considerable versatility, since most clothes were made in interchangeable parts....For a number of years, it offered a serviceable way of dressing, geared to active women's lives, adjusting to vagaries of climate, adapting easily to travel requirements. As the sportswear onslaught continued, clothes lost their linings and interfacings, becoming softer, looser, less structured. Almost everything became as comfortable to wear as a sweater. with trousers for women outnumbering skirts and dresses on city streets for the first time in Western fashion history.Decoding the Styles of the '70's The New York Times 1979-12-30 SM6 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/12/30/archives/fashion-view-decoding-the-styles-of-the-70s.html 2021-12-10 Pants and jeans took over the scene...[T]hey suited the quiet, realistic mood of the time...Pants also carried with them the important impression of ease, of not trying too hard, and of freedom—crucial preoccupations of the early 70's... Environmental concerns that had arisen in the 1960s got stronger in the 1970s, with the 1970 first Earth Day the largest one in history and ecological thinking reflected in fashion<ref>{{cite book |last1=Howell |first1=Georgina |title=In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue |date=1978 |publisher=Penguin Books Ltd. |location=Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England |isbn=0-14-00-4955-X |pages=310-311 |chapter=1970-1975: The Uncertain Seventies |quote=Reflecting the focus of general concern, Vogue has in the early 1970s put emphasis on the pollution-conservation-preservation message....The Friends of the Earth point out from Vogue'''s pages that every year [the UK] consumes a forest the size of Wales to make paper, most of which goes into dustbins, or that...we throw away enough cans each year to make a pile 45,000 miles high.}}</ref>Dubois Ruth Mary The Americana Annual 1971: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1970 Americana Corporation 0-7172-0102-3 288, 290 Fashion 1971 'Ecology' was the word on every tongue... in the form of more natural fibersElkins Ann The Americana Annual, 1976: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1975 Grolier Incorporated 0-7172-0207-0 248 Fashion Energy problems and ecological concerns made synthetics costlier and production undependable. Thus, the fabric emphasis switched to natural fibers....[N]atural materials of all types were used, not only in clothing, but in accessories.Harton Rose Margaret Shoes Step Into Spring The Dallas Morning News 1975-08-23 8C Showing up with new impact are the 'natural look' touches – canework, cork, rope macrame and bamboo used for bottom treatments and trims... and a turn away from the wearing of furs from endangered animals.Howell Georgina In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue 1978 Penguin Books Ltd. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England 0-14-00-4955-X 306 1970-1975: The Uncertain Seventies ...[N]o woman with her eyes open would walk about now in the skins of a rare animal and be the butt of raised eyebrows and uncomplimentary remarks. New technologies brought about advances such as mass production, higher efficiency, generating higher standards and uniformity. Generally the most famous silhouette of the mid and late 1970s for both genders was that of tight on top and loose at the bottom. The 1970s also saw the birth of the indifferent, anti-conformist casual chic approach to fashion, which consisted of sweaters, T-shirts, jeans and sneakers.Evans Ell N. The Emperor's Fall Clothes The New York Times 1975-08-24 213 https://www.nytimes.com/1975/08/24/archives/the-emperors-fall-clothes-the-layered-look-looked-hotter-than-a.html 2022-03-24 [J]eans have invaded ballet, theater and gallery openings with such assertion that everyone else feels overdressed. One notable fashion designer to emerge into the spotlight during this time was Diane von Fürstenberg, who popularized, among other things, the jersey "wrap dress".https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/the-story-of-diane-von-furstenberg-s-most-iconic-dresses-30763 Diane von Furstenberg's Style History In Dresses Marie Claire 31 December 2014 Marie Claire UK 15 April 2023https://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/von-furstenberg-diane/ Vintage Fashion Guild : Label Resource : Von Furstenberg, Diane vintagefashionguild.org 15 April 2023 Von Fürstenberg's wrap dress design, essentially a robe, was among the most popular fashion styles of the 1970s for women and would also be credited as a symbol of women's liberation.https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/wrap-superstar-designer-diane-von-furstenberg-tells-her-story-801189.html https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220507/https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/wrap-superstar-designer-diane-von-furstenberg-tells-her-story-801189.html 2022-05-07 subscription live Wrap superstar: Designer Diane von Fürstenberg tells her story March 27, 2008 The Independent on Sunday 13 April 2023 LondonLeora Tanenbaum Leora Tanenbaum Because of Slut-Shaming, the Wrap Dress Still Matters http://www.huffingtonpost.com/leora-tanenbaum/because-of-slut-shaming-the-wrap-dress-still-matters_b_7769476.html Huffington Post 13 April 2023 July 14, 2015 The French designer Yves Saint LaurentMorris Bernadine Fashion: Paris Report The New York Times 1976-08-15 179 https://www.nytimes.com/1976/08/15/archives/fashion-paris-report-peasant-luxe.html 2022-04-04 In the late 1960's, [Saint Laurent] watched the student riots in Paris and came up with the pants suit, which everyone is still wearing.Morris Bernadine The Paris Couture: Serenely Relevant Most of the Time The New York Times 1975-08-02 38 https://www.nytimes.com/1975/08/02/archives/the-paris-couture-serenely-relevant-most-of-the-time.html Yves Saint Laurent was the first of the couturiers to grasp the change in the attitudes of women...to clothes. First, he picked up inspiration from what people wore on the street, not eschewing denim, poplin and patchwork leather. and the American designer Halston both observed and embraced the changes that were happening in society,Bender Marylin Downfall of a Grande Dame: For Peck & Peck, Ironies Abound The New York Times 1974-07-28 130 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/07/28/archives/downfall-of-a-grande-dame-world-of-seventh-ave-for-peck-peck.html In the nineteen‐seventies sportswear came back to fashion, sweeping traditional categories of apparel like dresses, suits and coats out of women's wardrobes. Blame the social revolution, labor costs or the economy... especially the huge growth of women's rightsEmbree Alice Voice Lessons 2021 Briscoe Center for American History, The University of Texas at Austin Austin, TX, USA 978-0-9997318-6-4 174 Raising Our Voices: 1973-1979 In 1970, the women's movement began to take dress down an increasingly informal path. T-shirts, blue jeans, cutoffs, hiking boots, hair flowing freely...Women disposed of bras and freed their breasts under T-shirts or blue work shirts....Relaxed informality settled into the mainstream. In the '70s, political statements moved from buttons to...T-shirts.Morris Bernadine As Styles Move into History, A Pattern of Society Emerges The New York Times 1974-01-01 10 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/01/01/archives/as-styles-move-into-history-a-pattern-of-society-emerges.html 2024-08-26 Keeping up with fashion is being put down by busy, productive women who claim (a) they have no time for it, (b) it's a frivolous occupation, and (c) fashion is a conspiracy on the part of designers to persuade feather-headed women to keep pouring out money for clothes they do not really need but are made to feel they want. and the youth counterculture.1969-07-01 Vreeland Diana Yves's Other Eden: Saint Laurent in Marrakech Vogue New York, NY, USA The Condé Nast Publications 154 1 149 ...Yves Saint Laurent is probably the activist of the French couture – he understands how young people feel, knows how they want to look. They successfully adapted their design aesthetics to accommodate the changes that the market was aiming for. Top fashion models in the 1970s were Lauren Hutton, Margaux Hemingway, Beverly Johnson, Gia Carangi, Janice Dickinson, Patti Hansen, Cheryl Tiegs, Jerry Hall, and Iman. Women Early 1970s (1970–1973) Hippie look The 1970s began with a continuation of the hippie look from the 1960s, giving a distinct ethnic flavor.Heathcote Phyllis W. Britannica Book of the Year 1971: Events of 1970 Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. 0-85229-158-2 324 Fashion and Dress 1971 ...[T]he influence of the hippie movement could not be ruled out. The exotic prints..., the jacquard and patchwork effects, the general look of casual softness with swathed heads and flowing draperies, peasant, gypsy, and 'granny' looks,...bright wool ponchos..., the vogue for fantastic...jewelry, the long hair – all could be traced to the hippie... Popular early 1970s fashions for women included Tie dye shirts, Mexican 'peasant' blouses,http://www.paperpast.com/html/1970_fashion.html Paperpast Yearbook Paperpast.com 5 December 2017 https://web.archive.org/web/20170830163305/http://www.paperpast.com/html/1970_fashion.html 30 August 2017 dead folk-embroidered Hungarian blouses, ponchos, capes,http://www.retrowaste.com/1970s/fashion-in-the-1970s/ Fashion in the 1970s 1 July 2014 and military surplus clothing.http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Hippies.html HIPPIES 3 July 2014 Bottom attire for women during this time included bell-bottoms, gauchos,http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Gaucho-Pants.html Gaucho Pants 3 July 2014 frayed jeans, midi skirts, and ankle-length maxi dresses. Hippie clothing during this time was made in extremely bright colors,https://www.retrowaste.com/1970s/fashion-in-the-1970s/1970s-fashion-for-women-girls/ 1970s Fashion for Women & Girls 2 July 2014 as well as Indian patterns, Native American patterns,Taylor Angela If You Always Thought Fashion was Frivolous... The New York Times 1970-06-20 32 https://www.nytimes.com/1970/06/20/archives/if-you-always-thought-fashion-was-frivolous-.html [Designer Paco Rabanne says,] 'Western man feels guilty about the people he has oppressed. Subconsciously, he dresses like his victims'. and floral patterns.https://www.retrowaste.com/1970s/fashion-in-the-1970s/1970s-dresses-skirts-styles-trends-pictures/ 1970s Dresses & Skirts: Styles, Trends & Pictures 27 March 2014 2 July 2014 Women's hippie accessories of the early 1970s included chokers, dog collars, handcrafted neck ornaments, and accessories made from natural elements like wood, shells, stones, feathers, Indian beads and leather. All of these replaced standard jewelry. Unisex hippie accessories included headbands, floppy hats, flowing scarves, Birkenstocks,http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Birkenstocks.html Birkenstocks 7 July 2014 earth shoes,http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Earth-Shoes.html Earth Shoes 7 July 2014 authentic beaded and fringed Native American buckskin moccasins, including knee-high boot versions, and sandals, including tire-soled versions and huaraches. The back-to-nature direction of the times meant that there was also a lot of going barefoot.Multiple sources: Dubois Ruth Mary The Americana Annual 1971: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1970 Americana Corporation 0-7172-0102-3 288, 290 Fashion 1971 Bare feet had a big summertime vogue... Vreeland Diana Real-Life Dressing...The Real Cool Vogue 1971-06-15 157 10 126 New York, NY, USA [G]o barefoot when you can, or barely sandaled. Taylor Angela If You Always Thought Fashion was Frivolous... The New York Times 1970-06-20 32 https://www.nytimes.com/1970/06/20/archives/if-you-always-thought-fashion-was-frivolous-.html ...[M]odels...dressed in [Paco Rabanne's] brief...dresses...walk[ed] barefoot... Glamour wear thumb|upright=1|right|By the early 1970s, miniskirts had reached an all-time popularity. This young English woman is wearing a fringed suede miniskirt, 1971. Although the hippie look was widespread, it was not adopted by everyone. Many women still continued to dress up with more glamorous clothes, inspired by 1940s movie star glamour. Other women just adopted simple casual fashions, or combined new garments with carefully chosen secondhand or vintage clothing from the 1930s, 1950s and 1960s.https://books.google.com/books?id=ws2YJ7EYOQYC&pg=PA192 Designing Modern Britain Cheryl Buckley 1 October 2007 Reaktion Books 978-1-86189-322-2 Glamorous women's accessories of the early 1970s included cloche hats or turbans, pearl earrings, necklaces, bracelets, feather boas, black-veiled hats, clogs, wedgies, cork-soled platforms, and chunky high heels.Livingston Kathryn Zahony The 1973 World Book Year Book: A Review of the Events of 1972 Field Enterprises Educational Corporation 0-7166-0-473-6 339 Fashion 1973 Clogs, wedgies, cork-soled platforms, and chunky, high heels continued to alarm podiatrists. Golden chains, gold-button earrings and rhinestone clips started to become popular again in 1973 after several years of homemade jewelry.Livingston Kathryn Zahony The 1974 World Book Year Book: A Review of the Events of 1973 Field Enterprises Educational Corporation 0-7166-0474-4 319 Fashion 1974 Unmonumental accessories were the norm: golden chains, gold-button earrings, rhinestone clips...70s fashion icons http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/fashion/celebrity-fashion/2011/03/70s-fashion-style-icons#!image-number=2 28 October 2014 Glamour 2014 https://web.archive.org/web/20141029144322/http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/fashion/celebrity-fashion/2011/03/70s-fashion-style-icons#!image-number=2 29 October 2014 dead Trousers and hemlines The 1970s was the first decade in Western fashion history that women wore more trousers/pants than skirts and were free to do so in all settings.Multiple sources: Mirabella Grace Vogue Observations: What's Going On Vogue 1972-08-01 159 8 35 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA Not one skirt on the streets, It's pants, pants, pants...Now everyone, whatever the age or wage, wears...pants... Klemesrud Judy Mini Still Reigns, But Are Its Days Numbered? The New York Times 1974-06-25 33 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/06/25/archives/mini-still-reigns-but-are-its-days-numbered.html 2022-04-04 The majority of women are in pants, of course. Morris Bernadine No More Skirting the Issue: Dresses Have Come Back The New York Times 1978-02-18 28 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/02/18/archives/no-more-skirting-the-issue-dresses-have-come-back.html Blue jeans, pants suits and the whole galaxy of sportswear separates have supplanted [dresses] for the past decade or so [back to about 1968]...It's easy to find young women who have never worn a dress... In the first half of the 1960s, designers Norman NorellNew York: Norell Divides Skirt for a Fashion Plus The New York Times 1960-09-01 17 https://www.nytimes.com/1960/09/01/archives/new-york-norell-divides-skirt-for-a-fashion-plus.html?searchResultPosition=2 Norman Norell...introduced the most explosive new idea to be shown on any continent for fall – culottes for city street wear....Says Norell, 'They are designed for a 1960 woman's life – climbing in and out of taxis, traveling, walking.'...Easily mistaken for a flared skirt, culottes have pant-leg division that looks like pleat....In [one] version, pants are cut narrow, without look of pleat. and André CourrègesPeterson Patricia Courreges Stresses Modern Look; Simonetta and Fabiani Play Up Softness The New York Times 1964-02-03 20 https://www.nytimes.com/1964/02/03/archives/courreges-stresses-modern-look-simonetta-and-fabiani-play-up.html?searchResultPosition=2 André Courrèges thinks modern. He firmly believes in pants‐suits for town....[H]e said..., 'Women don't wear pants to the office yet, but they will.'...The [Courrèges] show...started with...pantsuits. had promoted pants at all levels of formality, and by the end of the 1960s other designers had followed their lead and women on the street began wearing them increasingly as well, challenging dress codes at establishments throughout society.See-Through Breakthrough? Life 1968-10-18 65 16 62 https://books.google.com/books?id=KlQEAAAAMBAJ&q=see-through+breakthrough&pg=PA14 Some restaurants are still in a quandary about whether or not to permit pants...Business is also having to face the issue. Many conservative offices feel that pants are for men only... By the early 1970s, all barriers had been droppedNemy Enid Restaurateurs Cave In Before the Pants Suit Onslaught The New York Times 1969-04-26 42 https://www.nytimes.com/1969/04/25/archives/restaurateurs-cave-in-before-the-pants-suit-onslaught.html?searchResultPosition=1 ...[W]omen strolling around in pants suits...have had the last word....[T]he ban on women who like to lunch and dine in pants is slowly toppling. and women wore pants everywhere, including jeans.Multiple sources: Morris Bernadine Some Hems Will Be Lower, But It's Not Worth the Worry The New York Times 1973-04-16 47 https://www.nytimes.com/1973/04/16/archives/some-hems-will-be-lower-but-its-not-worth-the-worry-visions-of-a.html 2021-12-31 ...[W]omen everywhere settled contentedly into trousers for practically all occasions....Blue jeans became even further entrenched...and experimentation was limited to different toppings for pants. Morris Bernadine Fashion: A Look at the Simple Truth The New York Times 1978-01-13 B4 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/01/13/archives/fashion-a-look-at-the-simple-truth.html 2022-01-09 With a generation of office workers and executives going to work in T-shirts and blue jeans, formality in fashion was becoming a thing of the past....[I]t is possible for a woman to go anywhere, including black‐tie dinners, in a shirt and pants. Klemesrud Judy And a Word from Our Leader The New York Times 1973-03-04 404 https://www.nytimes.com/1973/03/04/archives/and-a-word-from-our-leader-gloria-our-leader.html?searchResultPosition=2 Miss Steinem was dressed in a brown turtle‐neck sweater, brown denim pants and a brown belt with a simple silver buckle — an outfit she said she might wear 'for three or four days straight,'...Her fashion philosophy, she said, is 'to wear whatever enables you to do your work with the greatest ease'. The switch to trousers was partly due to the fashion industry in the year 1970 trying to push all women out of miniskirts and into calf-length midiskirts,Howell Georgina In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue 1978 Penguin Books Ltd. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England 0-14-00-4955-X 319 1970 In the summer Vogue announces, 'The long skirt is here – and the first Vogue with not a short skirt in sight'.Vreeland Diana Vogue's Eye View: The New York Collections Vogue 1970-09-01 156 6 317 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA ...[Y]ou are held at the waist and the hemline is long and full....As for the tiny thigh-high mini – that, on its own, is a thing of the past. which came to be known as the "midi debacle" because women's resistance to it was so strong, particularly in the US,Morris Bernadine Madame Butterfly Look Flutters Through Rome Fashion Shows The New York Times 1970-07-13 34 https://www.nytimes.com/1970/07/13/archives/madame-butterfly-look-flutters-through-rome-fashion-shows.html 2023-05-17 ...American tourists [in Europe] are apparently the last holdouts [in wearing miniskirts]. They scurry around in their minidresses...Even the [US] fashion contingent is reluctant to take to midiskirts. that it almost ruined the US fashion industry as women refused to buy the long skirts that manufacturers had stocked up on.Morris Bernadine Women are Stealing a March on Short Skirts The New York Times 1987-04-25 1 https://www.nytimes.com/1987/04/25/style/women-are-stealing-a-march-on-short-skirts.html 2022-04-04 The sudden drop in hemlines in 1970 caused a revolt in this country against fashion dictatorship....In the collections for fall 1970, hemlines descended abruptly, by as much as 18 inches, from mid-thigh to the lower calf....The protests were immediate. Women declared that they would no longer be dictated to by fashion designers. They refused to buy long skirts. Stores suffered and many manufacturers went out of business. From 1970 to 1972, many women continued to wear miniskirts,Curtis Charlotte Charlotte Curtis The Midi Laid an Egg in 1970, but It Did Hatch Other Fashions The New York Times 1971-01-01 33 https://www.nytimes.com/1971/01/01/archives/the-midi-laid-an-egg-in-1970-but-it-did-hatch-other-fashions.html 2022-04-04 ...[V]irtually anybody can see...a vast number of bare knees...on any street.Morris Bernadine Zigzag Hemlines are Shown The New York Times 1971-02-08 28 https://www.nytimes.com/1971/02/08/archives/zigzag-hemlines-are-shown.html?searchResultPosition=39 2024-05-30 The French couturiers have recognized the right of contemporary women to show their knees....Minis abound for the women who still want them, though the majority of hemlines hover about the knees. Though the Paris designers foisted long skirts upon the world a year ago [1970], they've had the gallantry to retreat. some took up the new longer skirts,Dubois Ruth Mary The Americana Annual 1971: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1970 Americana Corporation 0-7172-0102-3 291 Fashion: The War of the Hemlines For spring 1970 most American and European designers featured longer lengths. They caught on in London and Paris, but not in the United States... but even more women simply switched over to trousers and jeans.Morris Bernadine Women are Stealing a March on Short Skirts The New York Times 1987-04-25 1 https://www.nytimes.com/1987/04/25/style/women-are-stealing-a-march-on-short-skirts.html 2022-04-04 Fashionable women everywhere turned to pants....Trousers continued as part of the fashion uniform...Morris Bernadine The Midi Begins to Sell, but Will It Become a Fashion or Fad? The New York Times 1970-03-06 46 https://www.nytimes.com/1970/03/06/archives/the-midi-begins-to-sell-but-will-it-become-a-fashion-or-fad.html 2022-04-04 ...Mrs. Eddy of Saks Fifth Avenue and Mrs. Jane Stark, vice-president of Lord & Taylor, report that, in their suburban stores, women who were leery about pants for everyday wear are now overcoming their inhibitions....'We're selling an awful lot of pants,' says Liz Claiborne... Though a number of pant styles were popular and fashionable during this time, including knee-length knickers and gauchos,Curtis Charlotte The Midi Laid an Egg in 1970, but It Did Hatch Other Fashions The New York Times 1971-01-01 33 https://www.nytimes.com/1971/01/01/archives/the-midi-laid-an-egg-in-1970-but-it-did-hatch-other-fashions.html 2022-04-04 ...[S]uddenly there were knickers, gauchos, and pants, pants, pants. the most common style of trouser in the early seventies was fitted at the hips and then flared gently to a foot-covering hem,Vreeland Diana 1969-01-01 Forecast 1969 Vogue New York, NY, USA The Condé Nast Publications 153 1 80, 105 The jeans silhouette – snug to the derrière, narrow on the thigh...The right cut of pants: low on the waist, widening to the hem covering the tops of 2-inch heels. a look given impetus when Yves Saint Laurent endorsed it in all his collections in 1968.See-Through Breakthrough? Life 1968-10-18 65 16 61 https://books.google.com/books?id=KlQEAAAAMBAJ&q=see-through+breakthrough&pg=PA14 [St. Laurent's]...fall pronouncement...that pantsuits belong in the city...has gotten off to a fast start...Morris Bernadine Even the Restaurateurs Concede That Pants are Fashionable The New York Times 1968-10-07 54 https://www.nytimes.com/1968/10/07/archives/even-the-restaurateurs-concede-that-pants-are-fashionable.html 2023-07-13 Pants...have the endorsement of...Yves Saint Laurent, who devoted a good part of his last Paris collection to them and now is selling them like blue jeans...The wider cut to the legs has won many adherents. General trends More simple early 1970s trends for women included fitted blazers (coming in a multitude of fabrics along with wide lapels), long and short dresses, mini skirts, maxi evening gowns, hot pants (extremely brief, tight-fitting shorts) paired with skin-tight T-shirts, his & hers outfits (matching outfits that were nearly identical to each other), and flared pants. Pastel colors were most commonly used for this style of clothing, such as mauve, peach, apple green, pink, yellow, white, wheat, camel, gray, and baby blue. Rust, tangerine, copper, forest green, and pistachio became more popularized from 1973 onwards. Sweaters were a huge phenomenon in the early 1970s, often outfits being judged entirely by the sweater. This fragmented into more styles, such as turtleneck sweaters, sweater coats, sweater dresses, floor-length sweaters, and even sweater suits. Many of them were trimmed with fur, especially faux. Chunky, shawl-collared, belted cardigans, often in brown and white, were also commonplace. Jeans were ubiquitous,Sweetinburgh Thelma 1974 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1973 Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. New York, New York, USA 0-85229-294-5 310–311 Fashion and Dress 1974 ...1973 would go down in international fashion history as the year of blue denim. Worn alike by presidents of companies and their employees, by heads of state, royal princesses, farmers, truck drivers, Black Panthers, and film stars, blue jeans had become the most patent class-leveling garment ever known in the West...Plain or patched, embroidered with naïve flowers and butterflies or appliquéd with metal stars, studs, or eyelets to form scattered or regular designs, pale blue denim jeans, blousons, jumpsuits, and skirts crowded city streets and summer resorts. characteristic of the period.Cook Joan Is the Party Over for British Fashion? The New York Times 1972-04-19 40 https://www.nytimes.com/1972/04/19/archives/is-the-party-over-for-british-fashion.html As for blue jeans, they are apparent everywhere, especially along the King's Road in boutiques with such names as Mates, The Great Gear Trading Company, The American Haven and The Jean Machine. There are brushed jeans, colored jeans, patched, printed, red, white and blue jeans, as well as short, medium and long jeans, not to mention frayed and rolled up jeans.Mirabella Grace Vogue Observations Vogue 1972-08-01 160 2 35 New York, NY, USA 'Paris, St. Tropez, everywhere in Europe,'...Mary Russell reports, '[T]his is the uniform – the ultimate blue jean....[T]hey look as though we'd had them for ages, washed and bleached...[a]nd studded with...embroidered...stars'... Standard jean denim during this period might be pre-faded and softened via pre-washing, but it was still of a thick, sturdy weight designed to last, not yet thinned to virtual leotard weights like it would be in the 2000s. Both men and women wore their shorts at the upper thigh, with cut-off blue-jean shorts extremely popular, usually worn with t-shirts or tank tops. Women frequently paired them with halter tops that were often just the tops of string bikinis.Vreeland Diana Vogue's Own Boutique Vogue 1971-08-01 158 2 121 New York, NY, USA Naneen Shaw...in hot-pink halter and shorts...[Shaw is on a bicycle wearing upper-thigh-length shorts similar to gym shorts and a minimal halter top that looks a lot like the top of a string bikini.]Livingston Kathryn Zahony World Book Year Book 1973: A Review of the Events of 1972 Field Enterprises Educational Corporation Chicago, Illinois, USA 0-7166-0473-6 339 Fashion 1973 Chopped-off, patched, bleached, or never washed, blue jeans were customized by millions or bought in a host of new colors and fabrics. [Caption for a street photo of a very casully dressed young couple with long, natural hair dressed in the upper-thigh shorts of the period, the woman's jean cut-off shorts very lived-in-looking and paired with a halter top that looks like the top of a string bikini.] The popularity of jeans led to blue denim being used for many other garments, as well as other fabrics being given a blue denim look. On the feet, platform shoes were widespread in a variety of styles,Howell Georgina In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue 1978 Penguin Books Ltd. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England 0-14-004955-X 325 1972 Shoes are preposterously high and vivid, the thick platform adding inches to already tall heels. Saint Laurent's rope-soled wedge espadrilles in primary colours lace up...and...there are...corksoled sandals.Mirabella Grace Vogue Observations Vogue 1972-08-01 160 2 35 New York, NY, USA ...[F]rom Vogue's contributing editor Gloria Schiff...in Rome:...'All women – rich, poor, middle, young – are wearing big platform shoes – four-inch high cork soles... including clog-like formsSweetinburgh Thelma 1973 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1972 Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. 0-85229-282-1 295 Fashion and Dress 1973 ...[C]lumsy wartime clogs, in shades of green, red, yellow, blue, or pink, were popular with the young crowd.Mirabella Grace Vogue Observations Vogue 1972-11-01 160 8 105 New York, NY, USA In Rome, the girls are carrying huge umbrellas made of blue-jeans fabric – teamed with their jeans and rubber-soled clogs... and sandals, with relatively wide straps but never spindly heels; heels were always thick and chunky.Morris Bernadine Couture Scorecard: Good is Quite Good The New York Times 1973-07-28 28 https://www.nytimes.com/1973/07/28/archives/couture-scorecard-good-is-quite-good-special-cachet.html 2022-03-16 ...[T]he heels aren't the spindly, needle‐like variety that caught in subway grates. They're thick enough to look sturdy. The young paired these with colorful, often brightly striped knee-socks,Sweetinburgh Thelma 1973 Britannica Book of the Year: Events of 1972 Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. 0-85229-282-1 295–296 Fashion and Dress 1973 ...jeans rolled up to uncover multicoloured striped socks and...bright clogs. some with separate toes like gloves for the feet, called toe socks.Dullea Georgia The Youngsters Love Outrageous Socks: 'Why Have Drab Feet?' The New York Times 1973-12-19 52 https://www.nytimes.com/1973/12/19/archives/the-youngsters-love-outrageous-socks-why-have-drab-feet-a-hope-for.html 2022-03-08 [T]hey parade through the halls of Pleasantville (N. Y.) High School in what look more like gloves than socks. Toe Socks, the girls call them. For $3 a pair they get 10 different colored toes. 'Everybody around here loves them,' says Maria, regarding her rainbow of toes through Dr. Scholl's sandals and confiding that toe socks take getting used to...Mostly they're wearing them under their jeans...Nina Borie, a 17‐year‐old senior there, has swapped those cable knits that mother bought for socks striped in orange, yellow and green. thumb|Two Swedish models in Kings Road, London, 1971; Efva Attling in a "midi" dress. In the early 1970s boots were at the height of their popularity, continuing onward from the mid-1960s. Women had boots for every occasion, with a wide variety of styles being sold in stores for affordable prices. Despite the wide variety, the most popular boots were Go-go boots, crinkle boots (boots with a shiny wet look that was wrinkled), stretch boots, and granny boots (1920s style lace-up boots that ended just below the knees).https://www.retrowaste.com/1970s/fashion-in-the-1970s/1970s-boots-crinkle-platform-granny-stretch-boots/ 1970s Boots for Women: Styles, Trends & Pictures 2 July 2014 Mid-1970s (1974–1976) thumb|African American couple, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, July 1975 Casual looks By 1974, the T-shirt was no longer considered underwear, and was by then made in elaborate designs such as slogans, sports teams, and other styles. Around the same time the looser, more flowy shirts of the early 1970s had given way to fitted tops. By the mid-1970s, the hippie look had completely disappeared, although casual looks continued.Howell Georgina In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue 1978 Penguin Books Ltd. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England 0-14-004955-X 329 1973 There is an out-of-uniform uniform for students and school-leavers: floppy-brimmed hat, long straight hair, full-sleeved shirt or smock, and cotton skirt to the ground. In the mid-1970s women wore sweaters,Morris Bernadine Clothes for Fall: Mostly Casual The New York Times 1974-04-21 54 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/04/21/archives/clothes-for-fall-mostly-casual-fashion-talk.html 2022-06-22 A good portion of the styles are knitted. There are plenty of versions of the standard international daytime uniform: the sweater‐jacket over a flared skirt. T-shirts, cardigans, kimono, graphic T-shirts and sweaters, jeans, khakis, gauchos, workmen's clothes, and vintage clothing. A denim emphasis continued from the early seventies, particularly strong in 1973 to '75, with denim and denim-look fabrics of various intensities of indigo paired with blue jeans, usually flared, and denim skirts in below-knee lengths.Elkins Ann The Americana Annual, 1976: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1975 Grolier Incorporated 0-7172-0207-0 247 Fashion 1969 The jeans craze continued to mushroom at an unbelievable pace....Denim...was prewashed, brushed, streaked, bleached, studded, and embroidered. Knits or wovens were dyed or printed to simulate denim. Jean stitching and styling on...skirts made them best-sellers. Blazers and shirt jackets, tenty jumpers, and chemises were made in denim... In 1975, the slim-legged jean style known as the cigarette-leg was introduced, a style that would dominate the end of the decade.Elkins Ann The Americana Annual, 1976: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1975 Grolier Incorporated 0-7172-0207-0 247 Fashion 1969 The new jean, labeled the 'cigarette,' was narrow of leg and designed to be rolled up to mid-calf over boots. Around 1976, casual fashion adopted a Parisan peasant look. This included capes, turbans, puffy skirts and shirts with billowing sleeves. In the mid-1970s, accessories were generally not worn, adopting a minimalistic approach to fashion akin to that of the 1950s. The most commonly seen form of jewelry was a simple, thin, unobtrusive gold neckchain, sometimes in silver, worn under the collar against the skin by both men and women throughout the decade but becoming really ubiquitous starting in the mid-seventies.Multiple sources: Mirabella Grace Vogue Boutique Vogue 1973-02-01 161 2 112 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA ...the thinnest gold chain, under your clothes. Mirabella Grace Berry Berenson – A Natural Girl Vogue 1972-08-01 160 2 81 New York, NY, USA Berry Berenson...in jeans and a red-and-white striped stretch top [tube top]...gold chain. Mirabella Grace Vogue Boutique Vogue 1972-12-01 160 10 111 New York, NY, USA ...We...uncluttered our accessory thinking, wearing one important something on a gold chain... White puka shell necklaces were also worn by both sexes. Small leather shoulder bags were worn by women everywhere, and popular shoes included Mary Janes, knee-high boots with rounded toes, including Dingo boots and Frye bootsKlemesrud Judy In Pioneer-Style Boots, the Klutzy Look is Chic The New York Times 1976-02-17 52 https://www.nytimes.com/1976/02/17/archives/in-pioneerstyle-boots-the-klutzy-look-is-chic.html 2022-02-10 ...[Knee-high] Frye boots are the 'hot boots' this season...They were wide and loose around the ankles...Mirabella Grace Vogue Boutique Vogue 1975-10-01 165 10 153 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA The best rugged boot: the Frye boot! Square-toed rawhide, 2-inch heel.Mirabella Grace Vogue Observationis Vogue 1976-08-01 166 8 107 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA There is no question but the autumn boot is any version of, or the original, Frye (in Paris, almost every fall collection showed them...)...Paris version of the Frye boot in shearling (fur inside). (often with pants tucked in),From the Sands of Morocco to the Sidewalks of New York The New York Times 1975-12-03 56 https://www.nytimes.com/1975/12/03/archives/from-the-sands-of-morocco-to-the-sidewalks-of-new-york.html 2022-03-08 You'll find Mademoiselle and Glamour readers wearing jeans tucked into their Frye boots and Vogue and Harper's Bazaar readers wearing their pants with the more expensive Charles Jourdan boots. platform shoes and sandals, wedge-heeled espadrilles that often had long cords to wrap around the ankle,Crenshaw Mary Ann Fashion The New York Times 1974-06-30 34 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/06/30/archives/fashion-espadrilles.html 2022-03-08 Classic Spanish espadrille is two-toned brown and orange canvas....A covered wedge makes an embroidered denim espadrille into a shoe....Sling‐back espadrille in navy canvas has open toe, platform sole....An acid green espadrille is set on a high, high sole, has leather ties. Birkenstocks, Famolares,Jones Stacy V. Laboratory Method is Utilized to Test Tires The New York Times 1975-07-12 31 https://www.nytimes.com/1975/07/12/archives/laborator-method-is-utilized-to-test-tires-patents-laboratory-tire.html 2022-03-03 Famolare, Inc., is manufacturing 150,000 pairs a month of its Get There shoes. The shoe has a sole trademarked Wave,...a positive shock‐absorbing heel that propels the walker and creates a fluidity of rolling motion. The wavy bottoms have attracted considerable attention in the shoe trade....The sole...has four waves, one under the heel, another under the toe, and two in between.Anderson Keith Something Different: Famolare Fever The Dallas Morning News 1978-08-09 12 ...[R]etailers say they can never order enough of the famous wavy-soled Famolare...When shoe designer Joe Famolare introduced his first wavy-soled Get There five years ago [1973], his firm was doing a volume of $5 million annually. Now, the company is producing Famolares in six sole styles...and doing over $100 million a year. and loafers. Despite the lack of accessories, the mood ring was a big fad in the mid-1970s.http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Mood-Rings.html Mood Rings 7 July 2014 Active wear Clean-cut, all-American active wear for women became increasingly popular from 1975 onwards. The biggest phenomenon of this trend was the jumpsuit, popular from 1975 onwards. Jumpsuits were almost always flared in the legs, and sleeves varied from being completely sleeveless to having extremely long bell-sleeves. Other sportswear trends included tracksuits, tunic shirts, crop tops, tube tops, sweatshirts, hip-huggers,http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Hip-Huggers.html Hip Huggers 2 July 2014 low rise pants, and leisure suits. This continued into the 1980s. Accessories were less of an importance during this time, but two very desirable accessories included sneakers and tennis headbands. Tailored styles As the divorce rate rose and the marriage rate declined in the mid-70s, women were forced to work in order to support the nuclear family. The progressive addition of women to the work force altered shopping styles and fashion. Working women shopped on weekends and in the evenings. Feminized men's business suits such as tailored jackets, midi-skirts, and fitted blouses were their go-to choice as to "dress for success."20th-century fashion: the complete sourcebook Peacock John Thames & Hudson Ltd 2010 978-0-500-20402-3 London 533 thumb|right|upright=0.7|A young woman wearing a wrap dress. Starting in 1975, women's semi-formal wear became more tailored and sharp. This included a lot of layering, with women wearing two blouses at once, multiple sweaters, pants underneath tunic dresses, and jumpers worn over long, fitted dresses. The 1970s also featured some of the most scandalous dresses worn publicly in American history up to that point. Other clothes worn in this style include suede coats, peacoats, blazers, cowl-neck sweaters, pencil skirts, backless dresses, extremely low-cut dresses, palazzo pants, tube dresses, evening gowns, jacket dresses, and pinstriped pantsuits. Women's dresses in the mid-1970s were dominated by pastel colors, but Asian patterns were also common. Accessories for the more formal styles included high-heels (both low and high, mostly thick-heeled), turbans, and leather shoulder bags. Boots continued their popularity in the mid-1970s. This trend expanded to other styles, most notably the wedge heel (arguably the most popular women's shoe of the mid-1970s). Boots became rounder, chunkier, heavier, and thicker, and were more expensive than they were in the early 1970s. Popular boots of the mid-1970s included wedge boots, ankle boots, platform boots, and cowboy boots. The A/W Haute Couture Collection "Opium Collection" by the French designer Yves Saint Laurent was inspired by the Chinese culture and history. Disco look thumb|right|upright=0.7|Swedish model Ulla Jones dressed in a lurex halter top and matching flared trousers The disco music genre spawned its own fashion craze in the mid- to late 1970s. Young people gathered in nightclubs dressed in new disco clothing that was designed to show off the body and shine under dance-floor lights. Disco fashion featured fancy clothes made from man-made materials. The most famous disco look for women was the jersey wrap dress, a knee-length dress with a cinched waist. Essentially a robe, it became an extremely popular item, as it flattered a number of different body types and sizes, and could be worn both to the office by day, and to nightclubs and discos by night.Pendergast Tom and Sarah Fashion, Costume and Culture 2004 Thomson Gale MI, USA 0-7876-5422-1 933 https://archive.org/details/fashioncostumecu0000pend/page/933 Disco fashion was generally inspired by clothing from the early 1960s. Disco clothes worn by women included tube tops, sequined halterneck shirts, blazers, spandex short shorts, loose pants, form-fitting spandex pants, maxi skirts and dresses with long thigh slits, jersey wrap dresses, and evening dresses. Shoes ranged from knee-high boots to kitten heels, but the most commonly worn shoes were ones that had thick heels and were often made with transparent plastic. During the 1974-79 peak of disco's popularity, a variety of looks could be seen at these clubs, generally following the trends of the time, ranging from jeans-and-t-shirts to elegant high-fashion outfits to playful costumes. On televised popular-music dance shows of the seventies like Soul Train, American Bandstand, Dance Fever, and others, you'd see scattered pairs of chicly dressed people couples-dancing, the women's skirts swirling over their high-heeled sandals;Multiple sources: Villari Jack and Kathleen Sims The Official Guide to Disco Dance Steps 1978 Chartwell Books Secaucus, New Jersey, USA 9780890092590 125–126 6. The Disco Scene Generally, one of the best costumes for a woman is a full, swirling skirt and a somewhat bare top. The wide skirts...give you plenty of mobility....Halter, strapless, or just plain sleeveless tops are really helpful when you build up a fever on the floor....[L]ightweight skirt-and-top outfits...[are] popular with female dancers... Kennedy Shawn G. The New Discotheque Scene: 'Like Going to a Big House Party' The New York Times 1976-01-03 29 https://www.nytimes.com/1976/01/03/archives/the-new-discotheque-scene-like-going-to-a-big-house-party.html The sunken black‐and‐white squared dance floor of the midtown discotheque is jammed with well‐tailored young men and with women in slinky jersey dresses and swirly calf-length skirts....Miss Lee, wearing a long, green jersey dress and high black boots, was swept away for another turn around the floor by her partner... Hanson Kitty Disco Fever 1978 New American Library 9780451086419 46 4. If My Friends Could See Me Now... In discos everywhere, they will be dancing atop high, strippy...sandals....in gleaming metallics..., shiny satins and patents. people in mid-seventies casualwear like gauchos/culottes and cowlneck tops with full knee-high boots; couples in matching jeans,Hanson Kitty Disco Fever 1978 New American Library 9780451086419 42, 53 4. If My Friends Could See Me Now... Blue jeans...still make up one of the hottest fashion looks in today's discotheques....[She] is wearing a big, mesh, oversized...sweater and tight peg...jeans. t-shirts, and trainers;Villari Jack and Kathleen Sims The Official Guide to Disco Dance Steps 1978 Chartwell Books Secaucus, New Jersey, USA 9780890092590 125–126 6. The Disco Scene In some places, blue jeans and t-shirts may...be acceptable.Hanson Kitty Disco Fever 1978 New American Library 9780451086419 46 4. If My Friends Could See Me Now... For those who want comfort...there will be...vividly colored satin sneakers. people in gym shorts and tube tops;Hanson Kitty Disco Fever 1978 New American Library 9780451086419 38 4. If My Friends Could See Me Now... A young woman at...Studio 54...wore basketball shorts, a T-shirt – and then gathered around herself about three yards of sheer gauze fabric. people dressed as sailors and cowboys; etc,Nemy Enid The New Discos: Life Begins at Midnight The New York Times 1977-06-01 44 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/06/01/archives/the-new-discos-life-begins-at-midnight.html The new discothèques,...dressing according to mood, from elegant crepe de chine and miles of fringe to workmen's overalls, jumpsuits, sailor outfits, gold lamé, knotted scarves and long blouses pretending to be dresses. comfort and practicality being paramount for the era's active dancing.Multiple sources: Villari Jack and Kathleen Sims The Official Guide to Disco Dance Steps 1978 Chartwell Books Secaucus, New Jersey, USA 9780890092590 125–126 6. The Disco Scene Whatever you wear, it should be comfortable and cool. Hanson Kitty Disco Fever 1978 New American Library 9780451086419 35, 36 4. If My Friends Could See Me Now... The best...clothes for serious dancing must be free, loose, and comfortable....[A] flimsy blouse, vest, and big skirt will work... Mirabella Grace Disco Style Vogue 1978-02-01 168 2 188–191 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA ...[W]hen you're dancing, you want leggy/racy/narrow clothes....From tunics with nothing but legs underneath to the narrowest pants and big tops that slide. By the late seventies, many discos maintained dress codes,Kennedy Shawn G. The New Discotheque Scene: 'Like Going to a Big House Party' The New York Times 1976-01-03 29 https://www.nytimes.com/1976/01/03/archives/the-new-discotheque-scene-like-going-to-a-big-house-party.html ...[M]ost discotheques have dress codes. and some, most famously Studio 54, employed doormen to restrict entry only to the fashionably dressed.Quindlen Anna What's New in the Discotheques The New York Times 1977-11-11 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/11/11/archives/new-jersey-weekly-whats-new-in-the-discotheques-whats-new-in-the.html?searchResultPosition=27 ...[P]art of the lure of Studio 54 is that it is not a place of automatic entry...[O]n the pavement outside...hundreds crowd the street...[S]taff members, resembling well‐groomed guard dogs, push the overanxious back...To get into the club,...it is necessary to be...in cigarette jeans with dusky brush stroke on...impeccable cheekbones... Brief disco fads included overalls and coveralls worn by both sexes in the mid-seventies for athletic funk dancingHanson Kitty Disco Fever 1978 New American Library 9780451086419 45 4. If My Friends Could See Me Now... The girl...is in a flimsy sheer fabric – and he is wearing overalls. and hand-held fans waved by women in the late seventies,Hanson Kitty Disco Fever 1978 New American Library 9780451086419 49 4. If My Friends Could See Me Now... Fans: This is obviously a fashion accessory that is functional as well as chic – and fun. That room does get warm after a few hours of dancing.Sheppard Eugenia Fashion: Last Year Newsies in Review The Dallas Morning News 1978-01-06 2C Field Newspaper Syndicate ...in a discotheque,...flowers in the hair and a little fan as accessories. all following fashion trends of the period. Along with wrapdresses, women adapted dancewear for discos,Hanson Kitty Disco Fever 1978 New American Library 9780451086419 38 4. If My Friends Could See Me Now... Some of disco's best styles...are borrowed from dancers' clothes. Dancers' leg warmers have been seen... with maillotsWeir June Vogue's View Vogue 1979-06-01 169 6 154 The Conde Nast Publications New York, NY, USA Disco dancing: The maillot again – this time under a printed sarong that makes a great, easy-to-move-in wrap skirt. and leotards from Capezio, Danskin, and other labels worn under fashionable skirts, gym shorts, and full-cut blouses.Madden Kathleen People are Talking About...Fashion Vogue 1978-01-01 168 1 18 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA ...going from [dance studio] barre to street to disco,...basic, utilitarian leotards, layered on with shorts, pants, wrap-skirt – whatever!...good for...stripping down on a steamy disco floor. For most of the period, women wore "disco bags": envelope-size leather bags threaded onto long, narrow straps and worn across the body or as belts while dancing.Mirabella Grace People are Talking About...Fashion Vogue 1977-11-01 167 11 48 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA For disco-hopping, requirement #1: a handbag, small, light, with an extra-length shoulder strap [to wear across the torso]....[f]or money and keys...Hanson Kitty Disco Fever 1978 New American Library 9780451086419 40 4. If My Friends Could See Me Now... ...[S]he wears a tank-top...., two disco bags for exaggeration, frizzy hair, and earrings. The Big Look or Soft Look The leading high-fashion trend of the mid-seventies,Mulvagh Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion 1988 Viking, the Penguin Group London, England 0-670-80172-0 305 1968-1975 Designers and public alike grew tired of...classics and the 'big look' was introduced in the mid-seventies – loose, baggy, layered capes, smocks, tent dresses, leg-warmers and balaclavas – combined with the ethnic look.Morris Bernadine Will It Be Full Dresses or Narrow – or Back to Living in Jeans? The New York Times 1975-03-05 23 https://www.nytimes.com/1975/03/05/archives/will-it-be-full-dresses-or-narrow-or-back-to-living-in-jeans.html 2022-02-18 [In 1973], the big look was unleashed by Kenzo Takada,...and it soon took the French capital by storm. Within months the avant-garde was turning up in loose dresses and big coats. A year later, Karl Lagerfeld refined it and gave it stature in his collection for Chloe. By last fall [1974], the streets of Paris and other cities in Europe with pretensions to fashion were dominated by loose dresses, big capes and flowing skirts. The voluminous look had arrived. extending from 1973 and 1974 through the first half of 1978, was known as the Big Look or Soft Look,Finley Ruth American RTW: The Long, Soft Spring of '75 Fashion International 1974-12-01 III 3 1 New York, NY, USA 'Soft' best describes the look, soft fabrics, soft silhouettes, soft sleeves, soft details, 'soft' colors. with big meaning voluminous.Multiple sources: Morris Bernadine The Big Look The New York Times 1974-08-25 285 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/08/25/archives/the-big-look-the-big-look.html 2022-02-10 [S]tanding in the wings for fall is one of those momentous changes. It involves swashbuckling capes, blouses that blouse instead of cling, swirling skirts, voluminous coats, all wrapped up in acres of scarves. Morris Bernadine 70's Fashion: Sportswear at the Summit The New York Times 1976-01-01 36 https://www.nytimes.com/1976/01/01/archives/70s-fashion-sportswear-at-the-summit-hemlines-stabilized.html 2022-02-10 Paris started the 'big look'—voluminous coats, tent dresses, smock tops. Longer skirts went along with it....By the fall of 1974, long skirts, boots and capes were established as the uniform of the chic... Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Fashion Notes The Washington Post 1978-01-01 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/01/01/fashion-notes/d8df3044-440b-4fbf-a216-7c263cbd2d5b/ 2022-02-10 Fashion punch words from 1977 that carry into spring and summer 1978: softness, easy, loose, light....[I]t means loose fitting clothes in lightweight, unlined natural fabrics. This was a loosening and increase in scale of the popular, casual peasant styles of the late sixties and early seventiesMultiple sources: Curtis Charlotte Charlotte Curtis The Midi Laid an Egg in 1970, but It Did Hatch Other Fashions The New York Times 1971-01-01 33 https://www.nytimes.com/1971/01/01/archives/the-midi-laid-an-egg-in-1970-but-it-did-hatch-other-fashions.html 2022-04-04 ...the already popular gypsy‐ethnic look. Emerson Gloria Gloria Emerson Italian Couture Short on Ideas, Long on Effects The New York Times 1969-01-22 34 https://www.nytimes.com/1969/01/22/archives/italian-couture-short-on-ideas-long-on-effects.html 2023-07-13 The gypsy look...means a full, colorful skirt or a flounced one....[T]he gypsy idea is under way everywhere... Morris Bernadine Madame Butterfly Look Flutters Through Rome Fashion Shows The New York Times 1970-07-13 34 https://www.nytimes.com/1970/07/13/archives/madame-butterfly-look-flutters-through-rome-fashion-shows.html 2023-05-17 ...[H]ippie girls have taken to long printed peasant skirts. and a reduction and elimination of internal structure like linings and padding to achieve what was known as an unconstructed look and feel.Multiple sources: Morris Bernadine At Paris Shows, the Fabric is Flowing The New York Times 1974-04-03 48 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/04/03/archives/at-paris-shows-the-fabric-is-flowing-special-to-the-new-york-times.html 2022-02-10 [T]he dresses are so voluminous. The yardage is immense. They're also quite long, baring not much more than the ankles. That's the length most of the clothes are around here....[A]ll inner construction, and practically all seams, have been eliminated. That means no linings, no interfacing, not even any turned‐under hems—the fabric has simply been cut off at the bottom. As a result, the clothes can be piled on top of each other, layer upon layer, without making the wearer look like a moving mountain. A cape, two coats and a dress worn ensemble is not unusual. Instead of cutting up fabrics into little pieces and sewing them torturously together, designers seem to be throwing them against the body and letting them flow. Morris Bernadine Fashion is Quiet Now and Some Designers Say That's Just Fine The New York Times 1974-03-31 56 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/03/31/archives/fashion-is-quiet-now-and-some-designers-say-thats-just-fine-realism.html 2022-04-04 'Young people don't care about seams,' [Calvin] Klein said. 'I stopped caring myself. I keep paring things down more and more. Clothes are less constructed today. That's what makes them more natural'. Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Plunging into a Billowy Spring The Washington Post 1977-11-08 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/11/08/plunging-into-a-billowy-spring/02c3ac9d-6d23-4979-aeea-5eaa5d0bf27c/ 2022-04-04 John Anthony insured the light weight of his clothes by developing two machines that eliminate hems, bindings, plackets and even linings. Morris Bernadine Fashion's Fresh Approach: Free-Flowing, Elegant and Gay The New York Times 1976-02-10 32 https://www.nytimes.com/1976/02/10/archives/fashions-fresh-approach-freeflowing-elegant-and-gay-not-our.html 2022-04-04 ...[T]he new clothes seem natural, as if they weren't designed at all, but just happened. The best of them just flow, moving effortlessly over the body, anchored gently by drawstrings or elasticized smocking. Introduced by designer Kenzo Takada in 1973,Multiple sources: Morris Bernadine Kenzo Displays His Imagination With a Fun-Filled Show in Paris The New York Times 1973-04-04 38 https://www.nytimes.com/1973/04/04/archives/kenzo-displays-his-imagination-with-a-funfilled-fashion-show-in.html 2021-12-31 The models wore big, bulky sweaters over full dirndl skirts in gray flannel, tent dresses and tent coats and pleated dresses with embroidered white petticoats worn under them....[H]emlines ranged from below the knee to above the ankle...These long skirts have a certain kick to them. They're very full, even the flannel ones. Salmans Sandra Seventh Avenue The New York Times 1974-08-25 96 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/08/25/archives/seventh-avenue.html 2021-12-10 ...[T]he Big Look...was pioneered in Paris a year ago [1973] by Kenzo Takada...with absurdly large skirts and coats....[T]he look features long skirts, dropped shoulders, dolman sleeves and large armholes, blouson jackets, blowing capes, and loose dresses–all laid on with layers of fabric. Mulvagh Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion 1988 Viking, the Penguin Group London, England 0-670-80172-0 337 1974 Kenzo anticipated a major change this winter by creating a full, circular skirt, easily caught by the wind...The replacement of the short, kicky skirt by the longer, fuller style was the most important change in the silhouette...The new coat and cape shapes were also looser, fuller and longer – the hemline was anywhere from 3 inches below the knee to the ankle. This voluminous, unconstructed style was christened the 'Big Look'. carried further by Karl Lagerfeld in 1974,Multiple sources: Morris Bernadine At Paris Shows, the Fabric is Flowing The New York Times 1974-04-03 48 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/04/03/archives/at-paris-shows-the-fabric-is-flowing-special-to-the-new-york-times.html 2022-02-10 The difference with Lagerfeld's things is that all inner construction, and practically all seams, have been eliminated. That means no linings, no interfacing, not even any turned‐under hems—the fabric has simply been cut off at the bottom. Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Paris Looks: Casanova to Puss 'n' Boots The Washington Post 1977-03-29 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/03/29/paris-looks-casanova-to-puss-n-boots/c731ec09-f529-4ca8-ab22-ae7fdeb5647f/ 2022-02-10 It was Lagerfeld who first took the shaping and the linings out of clothes...He also removed hemlines entirely to make clothes lighter and more easily layered....'[Y]ou cannot go back to lined clothing, because...clothes today must be light and loose'. Mulvagh Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion 1988 Viking, the Penguin Group London, England 0-670-80172-0 300 1968-1975 ...Fendi...employed Karl Lagerfeld to design their fur range and he changed the whole silhouette of modern furs....Lagerfeld insisted that the underside of the pelts be stripped down to the very thinnest layer needed to support the pile, and by softening and treating the underside, made it unnecessary to line the garment. adapted for the USMorris Bernadine For Day or Night, Pants are a Way of Life The New York Times 1974-05-30 28 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/05/30/archives/for-day-or-night-pants-are-a-way-of-life.html 2022-11-07 The winds of change are rustling through the workrooms of Seventh Avenue, blowing away the skinny, skimpy, body‐clinging clothes of the past ten years. In their place are voluminous tops, widely flaring skirts, longer hemlines. by Geoffrey Beene shortly thereafter,Livingston Kathryn The 1978 World Book Year Book: Events of 1977 World Book-Childcraft International, Inc. 0-7166-0478-7 322 Fashion 1978 ...Geoffrey Beene was hailed as the father of the Soft Look....Years ago, he perfected an effortless flow of fabric over the figure so that shoulders took the shape of the body, waistlines were formed by a cord, and hemlines fell where they fell.Morris Bernadine Coty Awards Go To Halston and Beene The New York Times 1974-06-27 52 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/06/27/archives/coty-awards-go-to-halston-and-beene-another-award-winner-the-first.html 2022-04-04 None of [Beene's coats] are lined and all inner construction has been removed....'[I]n spite of their new bulk, they actually weigh less....It's the first direction of the seventies, I believe,' he said. and endorsed in silhouette the same year by the most influential designer of the time, Yves Saint Laurent,Multiple sources: Livingston Kathryn Zahony The 1975 World Book Year Book: Events of 1974 Field Enterprises Educational Corporation 0-7166-0475-2 328 Fashion ...Yves Saint Laurent with his beltless Naïve Chemise gave the [Big Look] the stamp of haute couture. Morris Bernadine Courreges's Fun Belies Uncertainty of Couture The New York Times 1974-07-26 38 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/07/26/archives/courregess-fun-belies-uncertainty-of-couture-blouses-for-250.html The Saint Laurent chemises are big and enveloping and make little attempt to show the figure....[S]mock‐like coats and jackets...can...be traced to Saint Laurent... Peake Andy Made for Walking 2018 Schiffer Fashion Press Atglen, Pennsylvania 978-0-7643-5499-1 113 The New Ease in Fashion ...[I]n 1974,...Saint Laurent created a Russian-themed collection....Saint Laurent's collection featured full skirts that fell below the knees, thick sweaters, capes, quilted gold jackets, velvet and satin knickerbockers, long fur coats and matching fur hats, and a new, and very distinctive, style of knee-length fashion boot...loose-fitting... Freund Andreas The Empire of Saint Laurent The New York Times 1976-08-08 87 https://www.nytimes.com/1976/08/08/archives/the-empire-of-saint-laurent.html 2022-02-18 The noise about Saint Laurent's big silhouette and folkloric look served to enhance his reputation... it came to influence everyoneMorris Bernadine Designers Softly Changing the Way Women Will Dress The New York Times 1977-04-23 48 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/04/23/archives/designers-softly-changing-the-way-women-will-dress.html 2022-03-15 An enormous change is taking place in the clothes now being introduced...Not nearly so visible as shifting, by a yard or so, the length of a dress or switching a good proportion of the female population from skirts into pants, the new trend nevertheless has a tremendous influence on the shape of clothes....The significant element is softness, expressed in the character of the fabrics employed and the lack of stiffness in the construction....[I]t is permeating the majority of the collections. from Calvin KleinLivingston Kathryn Zahony The 1975 World Book Year Book: Events of 1974 Field Enterprises Educational Corporation 0-7166-0475-2 328 Fashion In the United States, Calvin Klein was cheered for his wearable, toned-down, Americanized versions [of the Big Look].Donovan Carrie Feminism's Effect on Fashion The New York Times 1977-08-28 225 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/08/28/archives/feminisms-effect-on-fashion.html 2021-12-10 A year ago [1976], Klein, who has the ability to sense what women want before they know it, designed a fall collection that...had...a lot of longer, fuller skirts and looser tops. Everything was softer, less tailored. to Mary McFaddenMorris Bernadine Spring Fashions: A Little Something for Everybody The New York Times 1977-11-10 65 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/11/10/archives/westchester-opinion-spring-fashions-a-little-something-for.html 2021-12-31 One of the big changes in [Mary McFadden's] current collection is a loosening of the rather strict, austere McFadden silhouette. That means there are more bloused bodices, somewhat fuller skirts and even various layering effects. to GivenchyMorris Bernadine Fashion: Paris Report The New York Times 1976-08-15 179 https://www.nytimes.com/1976/08/15/archives/fashion-paris-report-peasant-luxe.html 2022-03-18 Hubert de Givenchy loosened up a bit, turning out a peasant style or two. to Perry Ellis, who was probably the look's biggest US exponent.Duka John Fashion Profile The New York Times 1978-07-02 SM6 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/07/02/archives/fashion-profile-home-grown-talent.html 2021-12-31 Last year [1977]..., Ellis was one of the major interpreters of the 'Slouch Look,' his own name for such designs as loose‐fitting, voluminous tops with raglan sleeves draped offhandedly over tapered pants cut too long so that they bunched at the ankles. He followed this with gutsy, oversized, bulky knit sweaters that hung down to mid‐thigh.Donovan Carrie Why the Big Change Now The New York Times 1978-11-12 SM226 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/11/12/archives/why-the-big-change-now.html 2021-11-15 Perry Ellis...turned out some of the most extreme of the layered, piled-on 'big' looks... Late 1970s (1977–1979) Relaxed look thumb|Two women in 1979 wear the trendy tube tops, while the woman on the far left is wearing a rayon strapless dress In 1977, mass-market fashion became more baggy as the Big Look that had been dominant in high fashion since 1974 filtered down to the public. This caused much controversy, as women with trim figures bemoaned not being able to flaunt them while heavier women complained the looser clothes made them look even larger. To make up for this, it became fashionable to show more skin. This resulted in shirts being unbuttoned, sleeves being rolled up, and tops being strapless, transparent, and lacy. Shiny satin and gold colors were also used to make up for the lack of tighter clothing. Also in 1977, puffy, quilted, down-filled coats to the calf became popular during that year's very cold winter, originating in New York.Madden Kathleen Vogue's View: New Ways with Down Vogue 1980-12-01 170 12 214 New York, NY, USA ...New Yorkers trace the origins of the down-coat explosion to a tiny shop...owned by a young Japanese husband and wife team named Miya and Yoshi...Their quilted down coat, with its big industrial zipper, first appeared in 1977 and quickly inspired a wave of down fashions from Seventh Avenue. By 1977, pants were only flared slightly and sometimes not flared at all. Women's fashions in the late 1970s included cowl-neck shirts and sweaters, pantsuits, leisure suits, tracksuits, sundresses worn with tight T-shirts, strapless tops, lower-cut shirts, cardigans, velour shirts, tunics, robes, crop tops, tube tops, embroidered vests and jeans, knee-length skirts, loose satin pants, designer jeans,http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1980-2003/Designer-Jeans.html Designer Jeans 7 July 2014 culottes, daisy dukes, and tennis shorts. This continued into the 1980s. Accessories included scarves, gold jewelry, flowers, ankle boots, 1940s style hats (often tilted), skinny and wide belts, boas, braceleted gloves, spike-heeled sandals, mules, ankle-strapped shoes, waist cinchers, and obi wraps. Color had almost completely faded from fashion in the late 1970s, with earthy tones like browns, light blues, tans, grays, whites, and blacks making a comeback. In the second half of 1977 and very early 1978, a common fashion accessory was an off-white, open-weave, sweater-knit muffler knotted at both ends and hanging down the front of the torso to a little above the waist, usually under the lapels of a tweedy jacket, worn by both men and women. The frenzy for boots had cooled down by the late 1970s, but they remained popular, especially in the winter. They became less flamboyant by that point in time, and they mostly came in black, brown, or burgundy. The most popular boots were either knee-high or reached the mid-calf, and were made in leather, suede, urethane, or rubber. The toes were rounded, and zippers were on the side. The heels were usually only 2–4 inches, and the heels were sometimes even flat. Women continued to wear wedge heels and ankle boots, as well as knee-high boots with thick kitten heels. In Pakistan, Afghanistan and Iran, many liberal women wore short skirts,https://www.thevintagenews.com/2016/06/08/44068-2/ This is how Iranian women dressed in the 1970s before the Iranian Revolution 8 June 2016 Thevintagenews.com 5 December 2017https://www.huffingtonpost.ca/2013/10/10/afghanistan-style-photos_n_4078132.html Afghanistan Style in The '20s Through '70s: Photographs Show A Lost, Fashionable Time 10 October 2013 HuffPost 24 September 2018 flower printed hippie dresses, flared trousers,https://www.dawn.com/news/1223761 Pakistan's contrary years (1971–1977): A cultural history of the Bhutto era Nadeem F. Paracha 4 December 2015 Dawn 5 December 2017 and went out in public without the hijab. This changed following the military dictatorship in Pakistan, the mujahideen government in Afghanistan,Which took over Afghanistan in 1992, not by the end of the 70s and Iranian revolution of 1979, when traditional conservative attire including the abaya, jilbab and niqab made a comeback.http://www.shughal.com/16-images-of-pakistans-swinging-1970s/ 16 Images of Pakistan's Swinging 1970s – SHUGHAL 6 March 2017 Shughal.com 5 December 2017 https://web.archive.org/web/20161009213528/http://www.shughal.com/16-images-of-pakistans-swinging-1970s/ 9 October 2016 deadhttps://www.businessinsider.com/iran-before-the-revolution-in-photos-2015-4?op=1/ Take a look at these amazing photos of Iran before the revolution Business Insider UK 5 December 2017https://edition.cnn.com/2014/06/05/asia/gallery/afghan-women-past-present/index.html Unveiled: Afghan women past and present Sarkar, Monica 7 April 2015 CNN 24 September 2018 One-piece swimsuits In 1977, American actress Farrah Fawcett popularized the one-piece swimsuit which in turn launched the trend for the maillot. This was, when it resurged in the 1970s, a sexy, tight swimsuit, with deep neckline and high-cut legs, worn by young women and girls in lieu of the bikini, although it did not entirely replace the latter. This continued into the 1980s. The pantsuit By the late 1970s the pantsuit had become acceptable business wear for executive women. This was due to the success of Yves Saint Laurent's "Le smoking" tuxedo with silk lapels designed to allow any ash falling from cigarettes to slide off, keeping the jacket clean.https://www.allure.com/story/women-suits-history The Fascinating History of Women Wearing te Allure 2018-04-22 Business Insider pointed out that wearing the pantsuit was more of a political statement than a fashion one. "So, dressing in a YSL trouser suit declared the wearer was irreverent, daring, and on the cutting edge of fashion, whilst suggesting their alignment with burgeoning feminist politics – le smoking effectively demanded: 'If men can wear this, why can't I?'" With the increase of women entering the workface, they were in search for a new symbol that proved they were as serious and powerful as the men they shared elevators with. The only solution to convince male-dominated workspaces was to copy their tailored suits. The jacket could be either short and shapely or long and lean. Movies like Annie Hall fought gender ideals by portraying a woman who wore men's clothing on the daily basis. This movie took a big inspiration from the decade and because of its success, continues to influence fashion. Skirts, when worn, were often knee-length and could possibly have a front or side slit that put a subtle emphasis on the legs. To offset the more traditionally masculine look of "business suit style", women like Margot Kidder in Superman experimented with hats, high heels, ruffles that peaked out from the jacket and large jewelry to keep a confident, yet feminine, look intact.https://www.retrowaste.com/1970s/fashion-in-the-1970s/ 1970s Fashion: Styles, Trends, Pictures & History retrowaste.com 10 April 2015 2018-04-22 Designer jeans In 1978, the first designer jeans were introducedHyde Nina S. Nina Hyde The Top of the (Bottom) Line The Washington Post 1978-12-30 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/12/30/the-top-of-the-bottom-line/4710a055-c000-407a-a7dc-c2ba9adf9808/ 2022-02-10 [S]tatus jeans, with a designer label prominent on the rear pocket, are strictly an invention of 1978. And a hot sales ticket as well.McEvoy Marian Fashion The New York Times 1978-05-28 SM13 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/05/28/archives/fashion-jeans-beyond-denim-jeans.html 2023-10-05 Today, jeans are going through yet another evolution. Influential designers are putting their stamp on them. Such well‐known names as Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan of Anne Klein, Charlotte Ford and Gloria Vanderbilt have turned their respective attentions to these most durable and enduring of garments....This summer, there are...jeans with big designer labels on the waistbands... and immediatelyHyde Nina S. Nina Hyde The Top of the (Bottom) Line The Washington Post 1978-12-30 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/12/30/the-top-of-the-bottom-line/4710a055-c000-407a-a7dc-c2ba9adf9808/ 2022-02-10 'It's the label cachet and the chance for customers to get a designer label at a fairly reasonable price,' says Kal Ruttenstein, fashion director of Bloomingdale's. Ruttenstein isn't sure precisely when the jeans 'took off,' but he figures it was right after he returned from seeing the new collections in Paris in November. 'And it all happened so fast we didn't know what hit us,' he says. He's convinced that status jeans will be around for a while, but wouldn't hazard a guess as to how long. became popular,Multiple sources: Madden Kathleen Fashion Vogue 1979-01-01 169 1 30 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA Looking through the sales racks, this month [January, 1979], you get a pretty fair picture of what fall [1978] clothes sold and what didn't....Across-the-board, there was one standout favorite with American women. Designer jeans. Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde The Top of the (Bottom) Line The Washington Post 1978-12-30 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/12/30/the-top-of-the-bottom-line/4710a055-c000-407a-a7dc-c2ba9adf9808/ 2022-02-10 [Calvin Klein's jeans] started selling fast the minute they hit the stores, and are now being turned out at the rate of 50,000 pairs per week....The company expects to push out 100,000 per week....[D]esigner jeans are such big business that Bloomingdale's has created a department called "Pure Jeanius," and similar departments have opened in stores across the country. Hyde Nina S. Gussying Up for Fall The Washington Post 1979-04-30 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/04/30/gussying-up-for-fall/4291eb6f-5b83-4894-bd3a-a8d23c7d2c0e/ 2024-03-14 Calvin Klein...is...selling jeans at the rate of $100 million (wholesale) a year, producing 100,000 pairs a week. designers like Calvin Klein, Gloria Vanderbilt, and Fiorucci advertising their nameHyde Nina S. Nina Hyde The Top of the (Bottom) Line The Washington Post 1978-12-30 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/12/30/the-top-of-the-bottom-line/4710a055-c000-407a-a7dc-c2ba9adf9808/ 2022-02-10 They boast labels including Calvin Klein, Gloria Vanderbilt, Geoffrey Beene, Ralph Lauren, Cacharel, Maurice Sasson, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Cardin, with Scott Barrie, Thierry Mugler, Stephen Burrows, Bill Blass and many more still to come. on the back of the fashionable cigarette-leg, usually dark blue denim jean of the time.Morris Bernadine Jeans: Skinny is Out, Baggy In The New York Times 1979-09-16 74 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/09/16/archives/jeans-skinny-is-out-baggy-in-a-change-in-style.html 2022-03-03 [T]he idea was to get jeans as skinny as stove‐pipes or cigarettes.Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde The Top of the (Bottom) Line The Washington Post 1978-12-30 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/12/30/the-top-of-the-bottom-line/4710a055-c000-407a-a7dc-c2ba9adf9808/ 2022-02-10 ...good fit, narrow leg...[Designer] Maurice Sasson...has taken his jeans to the very narrow 12-inch width, 'just wide enough to fit over the boot,' he says. In the US in 1978, they were often worn with hems rolled up to or just above the ankle to show off the popular Candie's slides on the feet.Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Fashion Notes The Washington Post 1978-10-08 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/10/08/fashion-notes/3b9eaab6-0a20-4e55-8021-4e81442cc15f/ 2022-03-03 [T]he hottest single seller to step out in a long time is the Candie, a cha-cha heel on a plastic sole held in place only by a wide leather vamp. Shoe Scene has sold 3,200 pairs in two stores; the maker, El Greco, has sold 2 million pairs in three months....[Girls] wear them with their jeans...They are sexy and...they are comfortable. Because of the molded sole the heel isn't as high as it looks.On the Street The Dallas Morning News 1978-08-02 6 We did see quite a few folks in rolled straight-leg jeans with heels... From 1979 to 1981, a popular style was jeans with a high-ish waist and full cut through the hips and thighs that tapered to a narrow but not tight hem hitting at the ankle or just above, called "baggies."Multiple sources: Elkins Ann M. The Americana Annual 1980: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1979 Grolier Incorporated 0-7172-0211-9 218 Fashion 1980 Another new trouser making its appearance...was the 'baggie,' which featured fullish pleating below a wide waistband tapering to a narrow pegged leg. Hendelson Marion Funk & Wagnalls New Encyclopedia Yearbook: Events of 1979 Funk & Wagnalls, Inc. New York, USA 0-8343-0034-6 167 Fashion 1980 ...[Y]oung women were attracted to a new silhouette – wide pants tapering to the ankle. Often called 'baggy' jeans, the new pants were less restricting than the more familiar skin-tight version. Morris Bernadine Jeans: Skinny is Out, Baggy In The New York Times 1979-09-16 74 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/09/16/archives/jeans-skinny-is-out-baggy-in-a-change-in-style.html 2022-03-03 The new watchword for jeans is 'baggy.'...[B]aggy jeans are fun to wear at the moment. They were paired in the fall with rustic-looking sweaters with shoulders fashionably widened via single, top-of-the-sleeve tucks or pleats called "dimples" by their creator Perry Ellis,Duka John Designing an Empire The New York Times 1982-01-03 20 https://www.nytimes.com/1982/01/03/magazine/designing-an-empire.html 2021-12-31 [Perry Ellis's] dimple-sleeve jackets, baby cable-knit sweaters and cropped pants...have been copied by many of the smart manufacturers... and the shoes worn with them were often high-vamped pumps with low cone heels inspired by Maud Frizon,Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Maud Frizon, the Designer Behind the Colorful Cone Heels The Washington Post 1979-12-12 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/12/12/maud-frizon-the-designer-behind-the-colorful-cone-heels/d0628720-7fa3-49c6-9aa5-5c8276d6a1fc/ 2022-02-12 [L]ower cone heels [are]...happening now because of the inventive shoe shapes of Maud Frizon., jazz oxfords,Hendelson Marion Funk & Wagnalls New Encyclopedia Yearbook 1981: Events of 1980 Funk & Wagnalls, Inc. New York 0834300362 172 Fashion 1981 By late spring [1980], the jazz shoe, a flat-heeled laced shoe, was introduced and well accepted. or flat, lace-up ankle boots. Shoulder pads thumb|upright=.9|alt=Welch in a blue scarf and high-collared gray jacket, with polka-dot feathered cap, in company of a man|Actress Raquel Welch in 1979, wearing the shoulder pads and "retro"-look tilted hat favored by designers at the time Styles became curvier for fall of 1978, with shoulder pads,Mirabella Grace Paris/Milan: A Real Change Vogue 1978-06-01 168 6 176 New York, NY, USA There's no doubt about it. The look, the shape, the mood of fashion is changing for fall – sometimes dramatically...The silhouette's a whole new thing. Begins with wider, squarer shoulders. The look starts there, and the line.Morris Bernadine Milan: Wide Shoulders, Bulky Jackets, Leathers The New York Times 1978-03-30 C6 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/03/30/archives/milan-wide-shoulders-bulky-jackets-leather.html 2022-03-24 The biggest change is not in the length of skirts but in the breadth of shoulders. Many jackets and coats, as well as some tunics to be worn under them, are not only widened but padded. tighter skirts, and narrower waistlines.Multiple sources: Larkin Kathy 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978 Crowell-Collier Publishing Company 249–252 Fashion In women's fashion, 1978 was a year of great change. It began with women submerged under layers of soft shapeless clothing...But the year ended with the same women shedding layers to emerge with a revamped fashion silhouette reminiscent of the 1940's, a look characterized by broad, even padded shoulders, tight waistlines, and shorter, straighter skirts. Livingston Kathryn World Book Year Book 1979: Events of 1978 World Book-Childcraft International, Inc. Chicago, Illinois, USA 331 Fashion Fashion took a dramatic turn midway through 1978. The casually loose, free-flowing silhouettes of the early part of the year suddenly slimmed down. There was a growing sense of structure. The paring away of volume meant sharper tailoring and a clearer definition of the figure. Broad shoulders loomed above belted waists, hip-rounding skirts, and pegged pants....Shoulder pads were resurrected, as were...severe, tailored business suits... Halasz Robert The Illustrated Columbia Encyclopedia Year Book 1979: Events of 1978 Standard Educational Corporation Chicago, Illinois, USA 315 Fashion The Big Look is out but big shoulders are in...Slim skirts and ankle-length pegged pants were shown with...padded tops...Dressy was in and gypsies, peasants, and hippies were definitely out. The silhouette that resulted was an inverted triangle.Multiple sources: Morris Bernadine The Message is Clear, But How Will It Be Received? The New York Times 1978-04-16 70 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/04/16/archives/message-is-clear-but-how-will-it-be-received-skirting-the-mini.html 2021-11-15 The newest look is that of an isosceles triangle standing on its point, tapering from squared shoulders to narrow skirt or pants. Halasz Robert The Illustrated Columbia Encyclopedia Year Book 1979: Events of 1978 Standard Educational Corporation Chicago, Illinois, USA 315 Fashion The new shape, in its most extreme European form, was likened to an inverted wedge. American buyers and journalists took to calling it 'the Joe Namath look' and comparisons were made to Joan Crawford's Adrian styles of the 1940's. Duka John Fashion Profile The New York Times 1978-07-02 SM6 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/07/02/archives/fashion-profile-home-grown-talent.html Koko Hashim, vice president of Neiman‐Marcus [says]...'There has been an enormous change in the silhouette, a broadening of the shoulders and narrowing of the hips—what we call the triangle...—that requires a reeducation of the consumer'. This change to big shoulders did not arise from women's demands, nor from what women on the street were wearing, the way miniskirts,Multiple sources: Morris Bernadine Mini Skirts Make Maximum Impact in Paris The New York Times 1977-04-06 66 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/04/06/archives/mini-skirts-make-maxi-impact-in-paris.html 2022-04-04 ...[T]he mini emerged naturally from the social conditions of the 1960's... Mulvagh Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion 1988 Viking, the Penguin Group London, England 0-670-80172-0 238 1957-1967 ...[T]he mini skirt...was born on the streets among art students and Mods. Morris Bernadine The Big Look The New York Times 1974-08-25 285 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/08/25/archives/the-big-look-the-big-look.html 2022-02-10 Starting with the swinging young in London in the early nineteen‐sixties, the miniskirt spread to Paris and then to this country where season after season matrons and manufacturers gleefully subtracted an inch or two from hemlines. By the end of the decade more knees and thighs were visible than at any point in civilized society and everybody felt young. Morris Bernadine Couture: Styles of Splendor The New York Times 1981-08-04 C6 https://www.nytimes.com/1981/08/04/style/couture-styles-of-splendor.html 2021-12-01 ...[T]he couture tried...to mimic street fashions...during the miniskirt years. jeans,Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Fashion: After Jeans...What? The Washington Post 1981-03-24 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1981/03/24/fashion-after-jeans-what/f25a2f01-3dda-4c74-8c1f-e490152a03b4/ 2022-03-06 ...[J]eans universalized the pants look for women.Dubois Ruth Mary The Americana Annual 1974: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1973 Grolier Incorporated 0-7172-0205-4 243 Fashion: Blue Jeans 1974 Blue jeans have taken a long walk on the fashion scene. After miles in the mass market they have arrived...in the realm of high fashion. This progression is contrary to the usual course of fashion, which customarily starts at the top and sifts down. pants,Morris Bernadine Fashion The New York Times 1975-06-15 SM11 https://www.nytimes.com/1975/06/15/archives/fashion-message-from-paris-laissezfaire.html 2022-04-04 Designers who sought vainly to pry women out of their pants uniforms have given up the fight.Morris Bernadine The Big Look The New York Times 1974-08-25 285 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/08/25/archives/the-big-look-the-big-look.html 2022-02-10 [In the early 1970s,] everyone settled down to wearing pants. Younger women who had never parted from their blue jeans bleached them lovingly, embroidered them with care. Less casual types wore pants suits. hippie clothing,Mulvagh Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion 1988 Viking, the Penguin Group London, England 0-670-80172-0 293 1967 The hippy movement...originated in the Haight-Ashbury district of San Francisco [and] made its own contribution to...fashion...Bender Marylin The Fashion Decade: As Hems Rose, Barriers Fell The New York Times 1969-12-09 63 https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1969/12/09/78547326.html 2023-04-24 It was a decade in which the...rich stole their fads from hippies who rejected materialism. office blazers,Morris Bernadine Key Word in Sportswear – Blazers The New York Times 1971-09-09 38 https://www.nytimes.com/1971/09/09/archives/key-word-in-sportswear-blazers.html 2022-02-28 Sportswear...is...the next step in the trend to informal dressing that has resulted in pants being worn to business offices and shorts being worn on city streets....The answer to 'What is sportswear?' could almost be 'blazers'... and more comfortable undergarmentsMulvagh Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion 1988 Viking, the Penguin Group London, England 0-670-80172-0 242, 282 1965 p. 242: Underwear changed: girdles and corselettes were replaced by the mini brief and Gernreich's 'no-bra' bra. Eventually the brassière was discarded altogether. p. 282: Brassières were cumbersome, unnatural and totally unsuited to the clothes women were now wearing. had in the 1960s and earlier '70s.Multiple sources: Decoding the Styles of the '70's The New York Times 1979-12-30 SM6 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/12/30/archives/fashion-view-decoding-the-styles-of-the-70s.html 2021-12-10 Take the anti‐establishment 60's...: the untamed manes of the flower children, the faded jeans of the affluence‐rejecting hippies, the discarded bras of the women's liberation movement, the knee‐freeing skirts..., and the street‐imitating gear of the radical chic...share...an antifashion attitude that became...powerful and pervasive... Donovan Carrie Feminism's Effect on Fashion The New York Times 1977-08-28 225 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/08/28/archives/feminisms-effect-on-fashion.html 2021-12-10 'When we were told to give up our miniskirts for midis,' [Gloria Steinem] says, 'there was a semi‐conscious boycott on the part of American women. We were fed up with being manipulated. We now wanted to make our own decisions on hundreds of things, not have them handed down from on high.'...What women wanted and bought were separate items—sweaters, shirts, jackets—to put together themselves as they saw fit. Those 'separates' went with pants. Mulvagh Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion 1988 Viking, the Penguin Group London, England 0-670-80172-0 298 1968-1975 ...[W]orking or older women reacted against fads by demanding classics and many designers focused on this market....[I]t was these understated classics that became the mainstay of the fashion industry. Though decades later it would be claimed that the big shoulders of this period were part of an attempt by women to assert a "power" look as they worked their way up career ladders, women already had appropriate but comfortable blazers for that.Dullea Georgia Suited Up to Storm the Boardroom The New York Times 1977-10-09 82 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/10/09/archives/suited-up-to-storm-the-boardroom-the-best-handbag.html 2022-02-11 ...Wall Street women are...wearing...tailored jacket[s]... The huge shoulder pad look came solely from designers.Duka John 13 November 1978 Paris is Yesterday https://books.google.com/books?id=-OACAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA111 11 46 111–112 11 December 2021 [I]f [Paris designers] have their way, American women will be wearing big, big, big padded shoulders... New York MagazineMount Roy Jr. Fashion The New York Times 1979-01-01 18 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/01/01/archives/fashion-will-the-retro-look-make-it-affluence-and-leisure.html 2021-11-15 Were designers so carried away by one of fashion's golden ages that they simply didn't notice how women had changed? Did they simply run out of ideas? They united in showing the look in Fall 1978,Larkin Kathy 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978 Crowell-Collier Publishing Company 249–252 Fashion ...[D]esigners in Milan, Paris, and New York showed fall ready-to-wear collections that almost simultaneously reached the same conclusion....broad-shouldered fashions, the pared-down look of fewer layers, and the neater waist...huge shoulders, puffed sleeves to emphasize width further...[T]he fashion message was clear: Broad shoulders were in. a few presenting shoulders three feet wide,Multiple sources: Mulvagh Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion 1988 Viking, the Penguin Group London, England 0-670-80172-0 364 1979 A hard, constructed, uncompromising silhouette prevailed: padded shoulders, sometimes three feet wide... Mulvagh Jane Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion 1988 Viking, the Penguin Group London, England 0-670-80172-0 345 1976-1986 Mugler...present[ed]...three-foot-wide shoulders... Duka John Paris is Yesterday New York 1978-11-13 11 46 112 https://books.google.com/books?id=-OACAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA111 2021-12-11 At Andrevie...shoulders were almost three feet wide. and there was strong resistance.Multiple sources: Morris Bernadine The Message is Clear, But How Will It Be Received? The New York Times 1978-04-16 70 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/04/16/archives/message-is-clear-but-how-will-it-be-received-skirting-the-mini.html 2021-11-15 [W]hen the padding becomes too mammoth, when the proportions are better suited to a quarterback than an office worker,...it becomes absurd. And, of course, if you add a padded coat to a padded jacket over a padded blouse, the effect can be grotesque. A lot of grotesque effects were seen on the runways... Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Not-So-Ready-to-Wear Clothes The Washington Post 1979-04-11 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/04/11/not-so-ready-to-wear-clothes/dd497d5d-c3e4-4ed6-8768-7c0f027363d4/ 2022-02-07 'What has been appearing on stage has nothing to do with women today,' said a very distressed Koko Hashim of John Wanamaker's in Philadelphia, before the YSL show. 'Customers will be so turned off by the pictures they see they will retreat happily back to their blazers. And that is not good for business.' Donovan Carrie Fashion View: American Designers Come of Age The New York Times 1979-05-06 254 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/05/06/archives/fashion-view-american-designers-come-of-age-fashion.html 2022-04-04 ...[F]ashion buyers and the press returned home saying such things as 'Paris isn't real,' 'It's too costumey'...[M]any Paris designers are not in tune with the times, and have therefore abdicated their fashion leadership... Madden Kathleen Fashion Vogue 1979-01-01 169 1 30 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA Looking through the sales racks, this month [January, 1979], you get a pretty fair picture of what fall [1978] clothes sold and what didn't....Women rejected: Shoulder pads. Since the clothes were less comfortable and more restrictive than the clothes of the '70sMultiple sources: Morris Bernadine The Message is Clear, But How Will It Be Received? The New York Times 1978-04-16 70 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/04/16/archives/message-is-clear-but-how-will-it-be-received-skirting-the-mini.html 2021-11-15 Stiffer clothes to come?...The shoulder treatments were...a symptom of what might become a problem: the interest of designers in stiffer, more constructed clothes. Morris Bernadine Seek Not the Past, Let It Arrive The New York Times 1978-07-12 C12 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/07/12/archives/seek-not-the-past-lest-it-arrive.html 2022-04-04 ...[A]s ontogeny recapitulates phylogeny, so padded shoulders can introduce a recycling of pointy shoes that kill, skinny skirts that make it necessary to mince, not walk, and a lot of unseen boning and wiring... Morris Bernadine Designers Talk About the Shape of Things to Come The New York Times 1978-07-17 D9 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/07/17/archives/designers-talk-about-the-shade-of-things-to-come-nonseasonal.html 'I refuse to get into shoulder pads,' said Geoffrey Beene. 'There are ways of getting the effect without sticking things into clothes that hinder movement and are uncomfortable.'...'I can't believe women who have been liberating themselves in other areas will go back to tight, restrictive clothes. Liberation extends to fashion, too'. and resembled too much the man-focused styles of the 1940s and '50s,Multiple sources: Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Beyond 'Retro' The Washington Post 1978-11-10 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/11/10/beyond-retro/5f1042b8-b14a-48a8-b94d-e122042f4e2c/ 2022-04-04 What much of the fashion industry has done is try to make something old work in today's lifestyle. And it just won't do. Mount Roy Jr. Will the 'Retro' Look Make It? The New York Times 1979-01-01 18 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/01/01/archives/fashion-will-the-retro-look-make-it-affluence-and-leisure.html 2021-11-15 Fashion has changed its course, from free‐flowing and easy to structured and contrived....Instead of evolving naturally from the kinds of clothes women have been wearing, the...styles have skipped back over several decades of fashion. They've landed somewhere in the middle of the 1940's, carrying obsolete notions of glamour, sophistication and hard‐edged chic as excess baggage....In many cases, the ease that had made clothes so comfortable was eliminated....[S]houlder pads...added another element of restraint. Linings and stiffer constructions began to reappear....The results have been called sexy by admirers; detractors call the clothes tawdry.... They have succeeded in evoking an epoch in which many women, perhaps the majority, were delighted to dress as sex objects. Morris Bernadine Paris Couture: A Glance Backward at the Silver Screen The New York Times 1979-01-30 C5 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/01/30/archives/paris-couture-a-backward-glance-at-the-silver-screen-some-names.html 2022-03-14 You wouldn't believe what Paris has in store for you... Well, some of you might, those who haven't changed their style for 30 years....padded shoulders with such sharp edges that they look as if they could cut your hand. Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Hourglass for Spring The Washington Post 1978-10-25 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/10/25/hourglass-for-spring/fb5e27a6-f77c-4b82-b31d-dda8447a8ab9/ 2022-04-04 ...[T]he looks all seem like you've been there before – in the 1950s....'If my mother saw these clothes, she would consider them quite matronly and dated,' says [Bernie] Ozer [of Associated Merchandising Corp]...Stockings with seams are modern? 'I guess if you have never gone through the business of trying to keep them straight, it seems like an amusing idea,' says Gerry Stutz [of Henry Bendel]. 'I really hate to start that again'... this shoulder-padded look was initially a hard sell to the public, though women didn't demonstrate against big shoulder pads as they had against the midiskirt in 1970; they simply refused to buy the look.Multiple sources: Buck Genevieve Shoulders: The Intimate Story Chicago Tribune 1985-10-02 https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1985-10-02-8503060991-story.html 2022-04-04 ...[In] the late '70s...really big shoulders reappeared, this time...broader than ever. Reactions to the doorway-wide affairs generally ranged from 'not for me' to 'never!' Donovan Carrie The Feminine Shape of Fashion The New York Times 1979-03-04 SM49 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/03/04/archives/the-feminine-shape-of-fashion.html?searchResultPosition=45 After seasons of clothes that were loose and were meant to be applied in layers, suddenly last fall [1978] a new silhouette thrust out the shoulders, pinched in the wiast, and hoisted the hemline....'I was fascinated at what part of it took,' says Koko Hashim. 'It was "no" to the exsggerated shoulders but "yes!" to the slim skirt'. Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Not-So-Ready-to-Wear Clothes The Washington Post 1979-04-11 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/04/11/not-so-ready-to-wear-clothes/dd497d5d-c3e4-4ed6-8768-7c0f027363d4/ 2022-02-07 ...[M]any [buyers] had trouble selling exaggerated shoulders...'I can't see women getting into cars with shoulders so broad,' said Wendall Ward, vice president of Garfinckel's...At one point during the five-day marathon of fall ready-to-wear shows, Robert Sakowitz, president of Sakowitz (Houston), asked Val Cook of Saks-Jandel, 'Do you know a good book store in Paris?...I want to buy a stack of Bibles,' he explained. 'I think we will all need to do a lot of praying to sell these clothes'. Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Broad Shouldered Paris The Washington Post 1979-04-09 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/04/09/broad-shouldered-paris/577026de-3fea-4114-b771-eaced95767d6/ 2022-03-03 'If you had tried to sell big shoulders in a store this winter, you wouldn't touch them for spring,' insists Val Cook, of Saks-Jandel, about the padded-shoulder styles, some of which looked like the model had forgotten to remove the hanger before putting on the dress. Some designers, notably Perry Ellis,Donovan Carrie The New Look: Hit or Miss? The New York Times 1978-11-06 58 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/11/06/archives/the-new-look-hit-or-miss-the-military-bombed.html 2021-11-15 [A]nything and everything of Perry Ellis's breezy designs with exaggerated almost pillow‐padded shoulders has been a run‐away best seller in stores all over the country, with usually cautious store executives using words like 'fabulous' and 'unbelievable' to describe their success. Norma Kamali,Duka John Norma Kamali is Heading Out on Her Own The New York Times 1978-07-11 C2 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/07/11/archives/norma-kamali-is-heading-out-on-her-own-a-reflection-of-her-tastes-a.html 2021-12-10 Norma Kamali...has become famous for her parachute dresses, sexy, shirred bathing suits, pegged, draped skirts...and...padded shoulders. Calvin Klein,Donovan Carrie Why the Big Change Now The New York Times 1978-11-12 SM226 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/11/12/archives/why-the-big-change-now.html 2021-11-15 This fall, [Calvin Klein] narrowed [his clothes]...and added a bit of shoulder padding. and Giorgio Armani,Morris Bernadine In Milan, the Classic Prevailed Over the Romantic The New York Times 1978-04-04 28 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/04/04/archives/in-milan-the-classic-prevailed-over-the-romantic-a-pair-of.html 2021-12-10 Armani's...gift for fall is a long-jacket suit with military shoulders...It accompanies pants, skirts or culottes and it sometimes has epaulets....[S]oftening agents take the curse off the military look....It has broad, padded shoulders... made it more appealing by keeping it comfortably wearable and just adding reasonably proportioned shoulder pads to slightly slimmed-down versions of the easy clothes women had been wearing during the decade,Singleton Paula The Shape: The Big T The Dallas Morning News 1978-06-07 12 You know the big top look...[T]his time it sometimes has a little help – in the form of shoulder pads. They're not strict and confining a la the '40s but merely used to emphasize.Morris Bernadine At Paris Showings, Both Creativity and Confusion The New York Times 1979-10-19 A20 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/10/19/archives/at-paris-showings-both-creativity-and-confusion.html 2022-03-16 The mammoth shoulder pads shown a year ago [1978] are one of the disasters. Only Claude Montana has repeated them. Still, a bit of padding exists in almost all collections and there is a lot going on at the tops of sleeves to broaden the tops of clothes without distorting the body. and this approach was a bit more positively received by the general public.Multiple sources: Fashion in the 1970s https://www.retrowaste.com/1970s/fashion-in-the-1970s/ retrowaste 10 April 2015 Donovan Carrie The New Look, Hit or Miss? The New York Times 1978-11-06 58 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/11/06/archives/the-new-look-hit-or-miss-the-military-bombed.html 2021-12-10 [T]he new look took—mostly in the less extreme versions, but with a few surprises. Broader shoulders have been accepted, up to a point. Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Fashion: Shoulder It The Washington Post 1979-09-20 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/09/20/fashion-shoulder-it/cbe8a4a3-4c65-4e86-9117-1f064f80b9a0/ 2022-02-07 ...[A]s the exaggerated showpieces were translated into saleable styles – with the broadened shoulder tapering to the waist and hemline – women responded positively. Livingston Kathryn The 1980 World Book Year Book: A Review of the Events of 1979 World Book-Childcraft International, Inc. 0-7166-0480-9 323 Fashion 1980 Trim, curve-conscious tailoring, with narrow waist and slimmer skirts, and such new details as peplums and defined shoulders, enabled women to create a look entirely different from the tossed-together, studied carelessness of past seasons. As had happened with calf-length skirts in the early seventies, so many designers continued to present really huge shoulders into the eighties, however,Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Hourglass for Spring The Washington Post 1978-10-25 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/10/25/hourglass-for-spring/fb5e27a6-f77c-4b82-b31d-dda8447a8ab9/ 2022-04-04 ...[I]f you thought padded shoulders would pass with the football season, you are wrong. There are various degrees of padding, but clearly the broad-shouldered look has a wide following.Donovan Carrie Fashion: Feminine Flourishes The New York Times 1985-03-31 80 https://www.nytimes.com/1985/03/31/magazine/fashion-feminine-flourishes.html 2022-03-09 Karl Lagerfeld..., Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy...continued with their versions of the rather aggressive broad-shouldered silhouette... that women were left with little option but to conform to it, which they finally did in the early eighties,Decoding the Styles of the '70s The New York Times 1979-12-30 SM6 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/12/30/archives/fashion-view-decoding-the-styles-of-the-70s.html 2022-03-18 The brisk, capable look of the wide-shouldered silhouette suited the mood of women who wanted to convey just that image: in control and 'together'. so much so that big shoulder pads became common in and characteristic of the 1980s,McColl Patricia Paris Takes a Wide View The New York Times 1985-03-17 69 https://www.nytimes.com/1985/03/17/magazine/fashion-preview-paris-takes-a-wide-view.html ...[S]houlders [are] now [1985] proportioned to sports-page, rather than fashion-page, dimensions...Customers...don't seem to be bothered by the exaggerated shoulders. After all, they make the waist and hips look smaller. seen on everyone from political leaders to actors in TV shows like Dynasty to your coworkers and family. At the end of the seventies, though, in 1978 and '79, much of the public still considered it strange,Multiple sources: Duka John Paris is Yesterday New York 1978-11-13 11 46 113 https://books.google.com/books?id=-OACAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA111 2021-12-11 [W]hy are the French making these crazy clothes? Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde A Turnout with Designs on the Opera The Washington Post 1978-09-11 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/09/11/a-turnout-with-designs-on-the-opera/6b3bd44e-a002-498a-be83-d8d87de65591/ 2022-03-01 There was a slide show from Paris ready-to-wear collections,...But most of the guests were simply not ready for such high-fashion profundities as palace-guard or storm-trooper outfits. There were guffaws...Opera Guild chairman Mrs. Edward Bruce...did bring home one padded-shoulder jacket this season, she said, which her husband made her take back. Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Fall Fashion Blitz: The Show's the Thing for Washington Stores The Washington Post 1978-09-16 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/09/16/fall-fashion-blitz-the-shows-the-thing-for-washington-stores/5f59515e-0931-4d71-a5a9-a18795d58812/ 2022-03-27 The new broad-shouldered, retro-glamor clothes, military looks and black leather that most customers are seeing for the first time are considered quite shocking....Dorothy Vineburgh, an active volunteer in town, [says], 'No way will I wear those shoulder pads....I want to find something elegant and comfortable.' Richard Krolick, staff director of a congressional committee, wasn't quite so kind. 'It's like World War II,' he said after one benefit this week. 'They have got to be kidding.'...[C]ustomers aren't loving all the clothes and the shows aren't generating large sales... though they had gotten the message that it was to be the new look.Morris Bernadine Paris Couture Collections End with a Salute to Tradition The New York Times 1978-07-28 A12 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/07/28/archives/paris-couture-collections-end-with-a-salute-to-tradition.html Who cares about shoulder pads? They seem...terribly ephemeral...Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Fashion Notes The Washington Post 1979-04-15 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/04/15/fashion-notes/3fc69745-ed9c-4a46-99bc-473ee4bb6c54/ 2022-03-03 From the runway, the push is on for big shoulders and suits, but...what was being worn by the audience at the Paris shows? Lots of Calvin Klein-looking clothes, easy sportswear separates, and a lot of the comfortable clothes the designers seem to be working awfully hard to replace. This revival of 1940s and '50s styles included the heavily structured and shaped strapless tops seen in bodices of the forties and fifties, achieved with boning and other forms of stiffening. During the 1970s, the most common strapless top had been the casual-looking, minimally constructed, elasticized tube top, so this revival of structured, bodice-like forms seemed like a real throwback and was not immediately taken up by the public. Designer Karl Lagerfeld, however, made it more comfortable by lining it with fiberfill and giving it the name bustierHyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Hourglass for Spring The Washington Post 25 October 1978 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/10/25/hourglass-for-spring/fb5e27a6-f77c-4b82-b31d-dda8447a8ab9/ 4 April 2022 ...Karl Lagerfeld's strapless tops were boned and lined with fiberfill.Morris Bernadine Karl Lagerfeld, the Designer Setting Fashion's Tempo The New York Times 21 May 1979 B6 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/05/21/archives/karl-lagerfeld-the-designer-setting-fashions-tempo-it-was-time-for.html 4 April 2022 His widely copied 'bustier'...has a foam base... and as such it would become very popular during the 1980s, especially associated with singer Madonna. At the end of the seventies, however, it was seen only on runways, not yet widely worn, as the public still preferred the softer, more comfortable tube top when they wanted straplessness.Singleton Paula Happy Birthday to Us The Dallas Morning News 1979-06-06 1C Things I'd rather never see again:..Boned bustiers...It's simply not my idea of a poke in the ribs. Footwear worn with these styles initially, in 1978, continued the very bare, high-heeled sandal that had been popular throughout the mid-seventies, now with a slightly higher heelHalasz Robert The Illustrated Columbia Encyclopedia Year Book 1979: Events of 1978 Standard Educational Corporation Chicago, Illinois, USA 319 Fashion Heels...reached skyscraper proportions in Paris – three to five inches... and in more dressed-up materials and colors like black and metallics.Mirabella Grace Fall Report on Shoes/Boots Vogue 1978-07-01 168 7 154–157, Inc New York, NY, USA ...the barest ankle-wrap shoe, silver mesh/black suede....the sandal with flash, metallic or rhinestone...The highest-heeled – the raciest – nighttime sandal: black suede, with an ankle strap set with stones. These often had ankle straps and the heel fell straight down in the back rather than being underslung. In 1979, the higher-vamped, vaguely 1950s-looking pump that would characterize the eighties would appear,Mirabella Grace Fall '79 Temptations! Vogue 1979-07-01 169 7 122 The Conde Nast Publications New York, NY, USA A pump again! For day, for night, for everything. Part of the whole move to trim clothes, tailored lines. With a more refined shape...never-before colors... often in bright colors and marked by the underslung cone heels introduced by Maud Frizon.Elkins Ann M. The Americana Annual 1980: An Encyclopedia of the Events of 1979 Grolier Incorporated 0-7172-0211-9 218 Fashion 1980 ...pumps, the shoe of the year. The most important shoe shape, the pump came in every color and every style – D'Orsay, sling, opera, spectator – all with a higher, narrower heel, often cone-shaped... Open-toed pumps were a particular focus in 1979.Finley Ruth Fall Shoes Provide Very Updated Versions of Old Familiar Classics Fashion International 1979-07-01 VII 10 2 New York, NY, USA Pumps, the leading suit shoe, sport open shanks, open backs, open toes... After dominating fashion since the early 1960s and being extremely popular with designers and the public as recently as 1977, knee-high boots were no longer in with designers as they promoted the shoulder-padded mode,Hyde Nina S. Shaped, Suited and Slim The Washington Post 1979-05-03 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/05/03/shaped-suited-and-slim/30620925-7262-4587-87f4-f692e2f4eb19/ 2024-01-24 ...[T]here are virtually no boots being shown... replaced by boots that rose no higher than mid-calf and usually didn't rise above the ankle,Mirabella Grace Fall Report on Shoes/Boots Vogue 1978-07-01 168 7 154, Inc New York, NY, USA News for day,...shorter boots (always a hand's width between hem and boot) to just below the calf....Shorter still: the boot to the ankle... resembling the demi-boots of the 1950s and barely distinguishable from the new high-vamp pumps.Morris Bernadine The Message is Clear, But How Will It Be Received? The New York Times 1978-04-16 70 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/04/16/archives/message-is-clear-but-how-will-it-be-received-skirting-the-mini.html 2021-11-15 Knee‐high boots have...waned, replaced by ankle‐high ones, which can he called high shoes or low boots. 26 February 2022 https://web.archive.org/web/20220226200936/https://www.nytimes.com/1978/04/16/archives/message-is-clear-but-how-will-it-be-received-skirting-the-mini.html live Finley Ruth Fall Shoes Provide Very Updated Versions of Old Familiar Classics Fashion International 1979-07-01 VII 10 2 New York, NY, USA It's a shoe! It's a boot! It's a shoeboot! Short boots are in... Another accessory trend that arrived with this new-old look was a determined attempt by designers to revive the wearing of dressy hats and gloves.Morris Bernadine Saint Laurent Brings Back Luxury and Old Lace The New York Times 1978-07-27 C12 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/07/27/archives/saint-laurent-brings-back-luxury-and-old-lace.html 2022-04-04 ...[Saint Laurent's first model] wore a forward-tilted fez and...black stockings with seams...red gloves with a black...coat or plum gloves with a black suit....Saint Laurent's favorite model...wore...a jeweled pillbox with feathers...[a]nd...diamond bracelets over her black gloves....[T]he miniature forward-tilted disc [hat]...is obligatory this season....The American Peoples Encyclopedia Yearbook 1979: Events of 1978 Grolier Incorporated 0-7172-0410-3 204, 208 Fashion Fewer heads were hatless....Millinery accompanied everything....The key word was small....[A]ll hats were worn straight and tipped slightly over the brow...The new coiffures were modified to accommodate the millinery....Gloves often stepped out in assorted fabrics and colors. For fall 1978, designers showed a plethora of mostly small forties- and fifties-looking hats, particularly small, tilted pillboxes, often with veils,Finley Ruth Paris Couture Fashion International 1978-09-01 VI 12 2 New York, NY, USA Biggest revival is in accessories: Hats for all hours: Rakishly tilted over one eyebrow, miniature pancakes, pillboxes, pagodas...Cocktail, dinner, and evening hats, many with nose veils; rhinestone-sparkled face veils; tie-on eye veils....Gloves: all lengths, wrist, forearm, elbow; bright leather gauntlets; rhinestone bracelets worn over black suede gloves. and the fashion press claimed that there was an increase in hat sales.Larkin Kathy 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978 Crowell-Collier Publishing Company 252 Fashion After years of predicting a hat revival, millinery businesses were caught in the middle of an authentic boom.Donovan Carrie The New Look: Hit or Miss? The New York Times 1978-11-06 58 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/11/06/archives/the-new-look-hit-or-miss-the-military-bombed.html 2022-04-04 Apparently women are yearning to look glamorous again. This may explain the surprise success of hats, not just the kind to take shelter in, but silly little frou-frou ones to tip over the forehead and wear out in the evening. Young women are wearing them with their jeans and older women are wearing them with their new glamorous evening clothes along with gloves. Though hats and gloves of this type were only rarely seen among the public in 1978 and '79, mainly as an occasional accessory with a disco outfit,Madden Kathleen People in Fashion are Talking About...What's Coming Vogue 1978-11-01 168 11 98 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA Cocktail hats...may not have much to do with the average American woman's life style; but they're selling as though they did....[W]omen are grabbing them for discos, for dinner. Don Kline, who makes the hats[,] says, 'The smaller they are, the easier they are for women to accept. They're more like hair accessories'. these revived hat and glove styles, like big shoulder pads, would continue to be shown during the following decade,Morris Bernadine Kenzo's Fluid Designs End Paris Showings The New York Times 1982-10-22 B8 https://www.nytimes.com/1982/10/22/style/kenzo-s-fluid-designs-end-paris-showings.html 2022-06-22 Designers...have a predilection for hats...More surprising was the appearance of...rather formal leather gloves...Hyde Nina Nina Hyde Refining the Look The Washington Post 1983-10-22 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1983/10/22/refining-the-look/5262e3e1-7b68-4852-bcdb-218da47f86b0/ 2022-06-22 ...[M]any of the clothes this season...came complete with hat and gloves... occasionally becoming popular,Madden Kathleen Vogue's View Vogue 1985-05-01 175 5 262 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA In Rome, women are literally lining up outside the doors of glove makers... and would be taken up by people for whom hat- and glove-wearing was customary, particularly royalty. Men Early 1970s (1970–1973) Peacock revolution peacock revolution With well-paid jobs and booming businesses, young men in the UK and America explored beyond the conventional social standards of dress. In the early 1970s, satin shirts in black, and grey were popular, and often featured lace ruffles on the cuffs and neckline. Due to the colorful nature of menswear, the time period was described as the Peacock Revolution, and male trendsetters were called "Dandies", "Dudes" or "Peacocks".http://beatlespeacockrevolution.weebly.com/the-peacock-revolution.html The Peacock Revolution The Peacock Revolution and the Beatles: British Men's Fashion from 1963–1973 2017-10-07 Typical casual wear for this time included Nehru jackets, ethnic inspired tunics, turtlenecks, candy striped blazers,https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/the-peacock-revolution-1960s-menswear V&A · The peacock revolution: 1960s menswear Victoria and Albert Museum 5 December 2017 winklepicker boots with Cuban heels, and hip-hugging elephant bell-bottoms.http://www.hiras.com/blog/2011/10/sixties-style-revolution-the-peacock-revolution/ Sixties Style Revolution: The Peacock Revolution Hiras.com 5 December 2017 Accessories like color-matching nylon zippers and bright braided belts were common and also fitted in with the Peacock style.https://0-www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com.library.scad.edu/products/berg-fashion-library/encyclopedia/berg-encyclopedia-of-world-dress-and-fashion-global-perspectives/peacock-revolution-legacy-american-mens-fashion-in-the-1970s PEACOCK REVOLUTION LEGACY: AMERICAN MEN'S FASHION IN THE 1970S Hill Daniel August 2015 Bloomsbury Fashion CentralFebruary 2021 InternetArchiveBot yes Suits were available in bright colors and unorthodox styles from 1970 to 1976, including shawl collars, three pieces with peak lapels, and double breasted suits made from corduroy, paisley brocade, wool blends with wide pinstripes, or crushed velvet in burgundy, teal, black, bottle green, and peacock blue. A rise of 4.4 percent in suit sales was reported by Forbes magazine. Stylish continental suits by designers Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Cardin were welcomed by young men while classic suits were loved by first-timers.https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/products/berg-fashion-library/book/twentieth-century-american-fashion/dressing-for-success-the-re-suiting-of-corporate-america-in-the-1970s 10 Dressing for Success: The Re-Suiting of Corporate America in the 1970s Cunningham Patricia Twentieth-Century American Fashion Dress, Body, Culture 2005 191–208 10.2752/9781847882837/tcaf0014 978-1-84788-283-7 Bright colors For the first time in decades, there was a significant shortage of raw materials and fabrics, including synthetics like vinyl and nylon. As a result, everyday designers kept things simple. The early 1970s were a continuation of late 1960s hippie fashion. For men this particularly meant bell bottom jeans, tie dye shirts, and military surplus clothing. Other early 1970s clothes for men included tweed sports jackets, khaki chinos, chunky sweaters in cream, dark green, beige and sky blue, storm coats, tartan jackets, peacoats, flannel shirts, pleated pants, baseball jackets, corduroy pants, crocheted waistcoats, striped pullover sweaters and sweater vests, tassels, belted cardigans,https://www.retrowaste.com/1970s/fashion-in-the-1970s/1970s-fashion-for-men-boys/ 1970s Fashion for Men & Boys 11 December 2013 2 July 2014 and hip-huggers. The most popular accessories of the early 1970s for men were homemade, with necklaces, headbands, and bracelets being made from all-natural materials such as wood, hemp, flowers, leather, shells, stones, and Indian beads. Unisex hippie accessories included headbands, floppy hats, and flowing scarves. Men's footwear in the early 1970s included flip-flops, oxfords, Birkenstocks, platform shoes,Livingston Kathryn Zahony World Book Year Book 1973: A Review of the Events of 1972 Field Enterprises Educational Corporation Chicago, Illinois, USA 0-7166-0473-6 338 Fashion 1973 Fashion went to men's feet in 1972 as shoes with wild colors, thick platforms, and 3-inch heels became popular with young and old alike.Vreeland Diana Men in Vogue Vogue 1970-10-15 156 7 43 New York, NY, USA Suddenly, the shoes to have are big...Men feel bigger shoes are right with wider-bottomed trousers. Colours and patterns go to the feet, too: shoes in mixes of greys, greens, reds....Black patent, cork sole. earth shoes, and cowboy boots. Eastern fashion thumb|right|Mao Zedong wearing gray Zhongshan suit, 1972. Due to the ongoing Cultural Revolution in China, Western style clothing was suppressed and both sexes wore grey Mao suits until the early 1980s.http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20151007-from-red-guards-to-bond-villains-why-the-mao-suit-endures From Red Guards to Bond villains: Why the Mao suit endures Clarissa Sebag Montefiore 2 November 2015 BBC 5 December 2017 The suit, unchanged since the 1940s, typically had four external pockets, five buttons, and a turn-down collar.https://depts.washington.edu/chinaciv/clothing/11maosui.htm Mao suit Depts.washington.edu 5 December 2017 In contrast to China, many people in Taiwan and Hong Kong abandoned the Zhongshan suit during the early 1970s due to its association with Communism, leftists, and anti-Westerners.https://suitelegante.wordpress.com/2015/04/24/the-mao-suit/ The Mao Suit 24 April 2015 5 December 2017 In the UK, France,http://www.couriermail.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/safari-suit-designer-dies/story-e6frer4o-1111118436606 Safari suit designer dies The Courier-Mail 5 December 2017 Indiahttps://www.thenationalnews.com/world/asia/hail-the-safari-suit-vanished-symbol-of-modern-india-1.367802 Safari suit symbol of vanished modern India The National Abu Dhabi 5 December 2017 https://web.archive.org/web/20111216114437/http://www.thenational.ae/news/worldwide/south-asia/hail-the-safari-suit-vanished-symbol-of-modern-india 16 December 2011 live and Australia,https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/australasia/the-turbulent-times-of-don-dunstan-a-revolutionary-in-hotpants-797146.html https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220501/https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/australasia/the-turbulent-times-of-don-dunstan-a-revolutionary-in-hotpants-797146.html 1 May 2022 subscription live The turbulent times of Don Dunstan, a revolutionary in hotpants 18 March 2008 The Independent 5 December 2017 green, blue or beige safari jackets similar to the Mao suit became popular among liberal men due to their association with socialist values, travel to exotic locations, 1930s Hollywood, and Roger Moore's portrayal of James Bond and Simon Templar.http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/tag/safari-jacket/ Safari Jacket – The Suits of James Bond The Suits of James Bond 5 December 2017 12 July 2016 https://web.archive.org/web/20160712150906/http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/tag/safari-jacket/ dead These were also worn in place of the business suit in decolonised African countries, including South Africa, Rhodesia, and Mobutu's Zaire where it was known as an Abacosthttp://www.theworldweekly.com/reader/view/magazine/2016-03-03/les-sapeurs-bringing-subversive-style-to-the-eastern-congo/6945 Les Sapeurs: Bringing subversive style to the Eastern Congo – The World Weekly Theworldweekly.com 5 December 2017 5 October 2018 https://web.archive.org/web/20181005215126/http://www.theworldweekly.com/reader/view/magazine/2016-03-03/les-sapeurs-bringing-subversive-style-to-the-eastern-congo/6945 usurped and paired with a leopardskin fez resembling an Astrakhan cap.https://adiac-congo.com/content/mode-les-nostalgiques-des-annees-70-exhument-labacost-39381 Mode : les nostalgiques des années 70 exhument l'Abacost – adiac-congo.com : toute l'actualité du Bassin du Congo Adiac-congo.com 5 December 2017 Mid-1970s (1974–1976) Glam rock thumb|right|Example of glam rock costume worn by Roy Wood and Wizzard, early 1970s. By 1974, androgynous glam rock fashion had gone mainstream for young Britishhttps://books.google.com/books?id=BV6SnnkAU9IC&q=PA48&pg=PP1 Performing Glam Rock: Gender and Theatricality in Popular Music Philip Auslander 5 December 2017 University of Michigan Press 978-0-472-06868-5 people of both sexes. These included embroidered Western shirts, velvet sports coats, Royal Stewart tartan as worn by the Bay City Rollers, red or blue shawl collar tuxedo jackets, frilly shirts, high necked nehru jackets, synthetic fabrics like satin, wide kipper ties, black or tan leather jackets, silk scarfs or ascots, shawl collar sweaters, satin shirts with oversized collars, drainpipe trousers as worn by Mud, and platform shoes of the type favored by Slade, Kiss, Alvin Stardust, Gary Glitter, David Bowie, and Sweet.http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/548954/1970s-fashion-moments-that-defined-seventies-style.html 1970s Fashion: The Moments That Defined Seventies Style 17 March 2017 Marie Claire 5 December 2017 15 September 2016 https://web.archive.org/web/20160915171257/http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/548954/1970s-fashion-moments-that-defined-seventies-style.html deadhttp://www.rebelsmarket.com/blog/posts/the-evolution-of-glam-rock-fashion The Evolution of Glam Rock Fashion Rebelsmarket.com 5 December 2017 5 December 2017 https://web.archive.org/web/20171205093607/http://www.rebelsmarket.com/blog/posts/the-evolution-of-glam-rock-fashion dead Unisex men's and women's outfits with few differences often came together in matching sets, and popular colors included cream, burgundy, brown, and orange. Informal attire thumb|Mid-70s Western-inspired outifts worn by country music group Asleep at the Wheel. Fashion in the mid-1970s was generally informal and laid back for men in America. Most men simply wore jeans, sweaters, and T-shirts, which by then were being made with more elaborate designs. Men continued to wear flannel, and the leisure suit became increasingly popular from 1975 onwards, often worn with gold medallions and oxford shoes. Vintage clothing, khaki chinos, workmen's clothes, sweatshirts, leather coats, and all-denim outfits were also desired among young men. Other trends include printed shirts, zip-up cardigans, western shirts marketed to capitalise on the nostalgia for 1950s fashion, Birkenstocks, mood rings, and raincoats. Many of the printed shirts worn from circa 1972 to 1975 were in a silky nylon with a slightly glossy finish called Qiana,Kosbetz Herbert World of Seventh Ave. The New York Times 1971-12-12 F13 https://www.nytimes.com/1971/12/12/archives/qiana-threading-way-to-top-jump-seen-in-usage-of-manmade-silky.html 2022-05-28 Qiana, a silk‐like fiber in the nylon family, has come into the wide‐use area of man‐made fibers...More and more, the fiber is going into apparel fabrics...When the fiber was introduced three years ago [1968], it was confined almost entirely to the couture trade...The fiber falls in the category of nylon owing to its molecular structure...Fabrics made of the fiber offer color clarity, luster, dyeability and draping qualities equal to or better than silk fabrics, and in terms of washability, they are said to outperform any other manmade fiber. made in button-front styles with medium-wide collars and in a variety of prints – photographic prints, artwork prints, etc.High-Spirited Sportswear Rolls In The New York Times 1974-04-21 482 https://www.nytimes.com/1974/04/21/archives/easy-does-it-highspirited-sportswearrolls-in.html 2022-05-28 A magnified hounds‐tooth check in Fourth‐of‐July colors explodes on Qiana...shirt; Wallpaper print flowers are displayed on Qiana for a shirt...; A stirrup design rides across Qiana...shirt... Decades later, these Qiana shirts would be referred to as "disco shirts," but they were not called that at the time, as they were worn almost everywhere. They accompanied both casual styles like jeans and corduroys and dressier slacks and leisure suits, usually tieless and with the top couple of buttons left open. Around 1975, American suits started to resemble the slimmer European suit. This new model, named the quasi-European suit, featured padded shoulders, higher arm holes, a smaller waist, open patch pockets, and a small flare to the pants and jacket. In 1976, it became fashionable for men to wear velvet tuxedo jackets with more casual pants to formal events, and vests came back into vogue. It was this year that men's pants started to feature smaller flares or no flares at all. This continued into the 1980s. In Brezhnev's Russia, used Western clothing, especially sheepskin coats and flared trousers, became readily available due to the détente.https://books.google.com/books?id=vF5Cpij6550C&pg=PA104 Soviet Consumer Culture in the Brezhnev Era Natalya Chernyshova 26 June 2013 Routledge 978-1-135-04627-9 Previously, jeans had to be imported on the black market.https://rbth.com/arts/2014/09/16/worth_going_to_prison_for_getting_hold_of_jeans_in_the_ussr_39833.html Worth going to prison for: Getting hold of jeans in the USSR Alexéi Rudevich 16 September 2014 Rbth.com 5 December 2017 Politburo members continued to wear the black, grey or brown suits and fur lined overcoats of the 1960s, with grey Astrakhan caps.https://pages.ramapo.edu/~theed/Cold_War/d_Brezhnev_Era/f%20Ford_74_76/bb_VladivostokConf.html Vladivostok Conference 1974 Pages.ramapo.edu 5 December 2017 The high-fashion Soft Look The Big Look/Soft Look that was high fashion in womenswear from 1973 to 1978 also extended to menswear,Multiple sources: Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Designers Say It's the Casual, Rumpled Look for Men This Year The Washington Post 1978-03-23 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/03/23/designers-say-its-the-casual-rumpled-look-for-men-this-year/cf8c48a2-aad4-4a64-98b8-f912b457dd82/ 2022-02-07 Following the direction women's clothes have taken for the last two or three years, designers expect men to adopt a looser, freer, softer look...Changes include: Jackets with less inner construction,..Softer, more loosely woven natural fabrics that allow jacket sleeves to be pushed up and collars turned up to underscore a more casual, even rumpled look[;] Clothes cut more loosely...[;] Pants, often shaped with pleats and slightly tapered to the hem, meant to be cuffed for business and dress, uncuffed for casual wear....Stefano Ottina, an Italian who designs for Punch and has a shop at the Watergate, says,...'You feel liberated in these suits because they have no stiff construction.'...American designers touting the look, including superstar Calvin Klein, refer to it as 'unconstructed'... Steck Duncan G. 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978 Crowell-Collier Publishing Company 252 Fashion The trend in menswear for 1978 was to an open, flowing look – loose shirts, looser, sometimes shapeless pants, sweaters, and loosely tied scarfs. The word used most by commentators at fashion shows was 'soft.'...Almost all the designers picked up the new loose and flowing silhouette....Several designers...were taking out shoulder padding, letting the [jacket] waist out, and...letting the suit settle over the contours of the body without imposing a preselected silhouette. Costin Stanley H. 1979 Britannica Book of the Year Encyclopedia Britannica New York, USA 978-0-85229-362-1 379 Fashion and Dress 1979 The two key words at [menswear trade exhibitions] were 'soft' and 'unstructured.'...Jackets were finished with softer interlinings and padding or, in some cases, with none at all. Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Comings and Goings at Studio 54 The Washington Post 1977-11-13 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/11/13/comings-and-goings-at-studio-54/5be9f11b-a927-4bea-a6c4-62358a75c28f/ 2022-04-04 Geoffrey Beene showed his menswear last week, mostly unconstructed cotton suits or big tops, much like he shows for women... Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Paris Fashions in the Fall: Big is Best The Washington Post 1977-11-01 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/11/01/paris-fashion-in-the-fall-big-is-best/fa54dfc8-9030-437b-b086-5c775e258fcc/ 2021-12-10 Men, too, take fashion in a far more relaxed way...Vests have given way to sweaters and stiff jackets to unlined blouson shapes or vests...Except for the strict business suit, ties have been abandoned and if anything takes its place, it is the muffler. spearheaded by Giorgio Armani in 1976, who followed womenswear's lead and eliminated the lining and padding from his men's jackets, suits, and trousers, cutting them in natural fibers with enough ease that sleeves and even trouser hems could be easily rolled or pushed up and collars could be turned up.La Ferla Ruth Fashion: Sizing Up Giorgio Armani The New York Times 1990-10-21 55 https://www.nytimes.com/1990/10/21/magazine/fashion-sizing-up-giorgio-armani.html 2021-12-10 [Armani's] career has been punctuated by a series of radical gestures, beginning with the unconstructed blazer of the mid-1970's – his epochal creation....The blazer, a calculatedly rumpled affair, featured sloping shoulders, narrow lapels, baggy pockets and an attenuated line. More importantly, it was endowed with a mobility previously unknown in men's suit jackets, except on Savile Row. It had the kind of comfort found only in sports clothing, which he achieved in part by stripping out much of its cumbersome lining and padding. Collars, lapels, and ties were narrower,Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Men's Fashion The Washington Post 1977-10-02 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/magazine/1977/10/02/mens-fashion/084ddec0-00ee-423f-81fb-159e5a0f5a22/ 2022-03-24 The suit is now at ease, the fit looser, the shoulders softer, the lapels narrower, the shirt collar trimmed and the necktie slimmed down.Costin Stanley H. 1979 Britannica Book of the Year Encyclopedia Britannica New York, USA 978-0-85229-362-1 379 Fashion and Dress 1979 Lapels generally were narrower on jackets, and some narrower cuffs were seen on trousers....Ties were narrower. the tie, when worn, often not pulled up high but knotted low to allow for an easy, open neck.Madden Kathleen People are Talking About...Fashion Vogue 1978-04-01 168 4 40 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA Everything from unlined tweed sports jackets to nonstructured double-breasted suits to shawl-collared black-velvet dinner jackets are worn with – no shirt, no tie – just crew-necked cashmere pullovers. When shirts do show up, the way [Calvin] Klein shows them, the top button's undone and the tie's knotted an easy inch lower down...Costin Stanley H. 1979 Britannica Book of the Year: Even of 1978 Encyclopedia Britannica New York, USA 978-0-85229-362-1 379 Fashion and Dress 1979 Young men began wearing their jackets with the collar turned up, the shirt left unbuttoned at the neck, and the tie knotted at 'half mast'. Trousers were straight-legged, sometimes even tapered, and often with soft pleats.Louie Elaine What the Insiders Say About Men's Fashion The New York Times 1977-09-18 SM224 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/09/18/archives/what-the-insiders-say-about-mens-fashion-fabrics-silhouettes-shirts.html 2022-03-27 The jacket is paired with straight‐legged trousers, either plain fronted or with single or double pleats.Donovan Carrie Fashion The New York Times 1977-11-13 SM34 https://www.nytimes.com/1977/11/13/archives/fashion-milan-designers-come-of-age-from-milan.html 2022-04-04 The new men's designs...emphasized casualness, with big jackets or big shirts worn with baggy, slightly pegged pants. Band-collared shirts were often worn with the look. This style was introduced to menswear during this mid-seventies period but wouldn't become widespread until 1977-78.Mirabella Grace Men: Style '78 Vogue 1978-04-01 168 4 289 The Condé Nast Publications New York, NY, USA The linings, the stiffenings, all of the hard, 'un-easy' elements have been eliminated in suits, jackets, in everything. It remained dominant in high-fashion menswear through 1978Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Paris Fashion in the Fall: Big is Best The Washington Post 1977-11-01 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1977/11/01/paris-fashion-in-the-fall-big-is-best/fa54dfc8-9030-437b-b086-5c775e258fcc/ 2022-03-24 Men, too, take fashion in a far more relaxed way....Vests have given way to sweaters and stiff jackets to unlined blouson shapes or vests, particularly on weekends. Except for the strict business suit, ties have been abandoned and if anything takes its place, it is the muffler.Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Fashion Notes The Washington Post 1978-01-01 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1978/01/01/fashion-notes/d8df3044-440b-4fbf-a216-7c263cbd2d5b/ 2022-02-10 Fashion punch words from 1977 that carry into spring and summer 1978: softness, easy, loose, light....For men, it is a break from stiff seams and sturdy linings...(I)t means loose fitting clothes in lightweight, unlined natural fabrics. and then menswear again followed womenswear's lead and adopted the new big-shoulder looks for 1979. The Soft Look's pushed-up jacket sleeves and turned-up collars, though, would continue into the 1980s in bigger-shouldered, more colorful form. Late 1970s (1977–1979) thumb|upright=1|left|Flared jeans and trousers were popular with both sexes as can be seen at this East German disco party in 1977. In the socialist part of Germany (until 1990), the government regarded western influences on cultural life of their population very critical, but factually tolerated them in many fields. Sportswear By the late 1970s, most men and women were wearing sports clothing as everyday apparel. This was primarily based on tracksuits, jumpsuits, velour or terry cloth shirts (often striped and low-cut), sweaters, cardigans, sweatshirts, puffer vests, flare jeans, straight-leg jeans, and collared shirts, both long sleeve and short sleeve. Around this time it also became fashionable for men to leave their shirts untucked. This continued into the 1980s. During the late '70s, long and popped collars became a staple part of men's fashion. Late 1970s accessories included low-top sneakers, tennis headbands, puka shell necklaces, and wristbands. Disco style thumb|A couple at a prom in late 1970s: powder tuxedo and sleeved dress. From 1977 to 1979, menswear became affected by the disco style. Men began to wear three-piece suits (which became available in a variety of colours including powder blue, beige, white as worn by John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever, brown polyester, and shiny silver sharkskin) which were characterized by wide lapels, wide-legged or flared trousers, and high-rise waistcoats (US vests).https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0076666/ Saturday Night Fever 16 December 1977 IMDb 5 December 2017 Influenced by the popularity of aviator sunglasses in disco, many wore glasses in the shape of aviators but with clear prescription lenses.2019-07-26 Vogue's fashion encyclopaedia: The history of aviator sunglasses https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/aviator-sunglasses-history-celebrities-ray-ban 2021-08-09 Vogue India en-IN Neckties became wider and bolder, and shirt collars became long and pointed.https://books.google.com/books?id=CWJKtHfCTWUC&q=disco+suit&pg=PA18 Everyday Fashions of the 20th Century Tom Tierney 5 December 2017 Courier Corporation 978-0-486-99544-1 Big shoulders Starting with a few designers in 1978Steck Duncan G. 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978 Crowell-Collier Publishing Company 252 Fashion Jeffrey Banks liked suits with a definite shoulder...Pierre Cardin introduced the Concorde shape: shorter and boxier jackets with details around the shoulder minimized to play up the width...Morris Bernadine Paris Couture Collections End With a Salute to Tradition The New York Times 1978-07-28 A12 https://www.nytimes.com/1978/07/28/archives/paris-couture-collections-end-with-a-salute-to-tradition.html 2022-03-16 Gilbert Feruch's...men's jackets...taper from broad shoulders and deep armholes to fit snugly at the hips. and becoming the main trend in 1979, high-fashion menswear designers at the end of the seventies adopted the big shoulder pads that had debuted in womenswear in 1978,Alexander Ron Shoulder It, Men: Padding is Back The New York Times 1979-09-16 CN21 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/09/16/archives/westchester-weekly-shoulder-it-men-padding-is-back-american.html 2021-12-10 Even men who shrug at fashion will probably find themselves in jackets with padded shoulders this fall. Broad shoulders are back...Calvin Klein['s]...shoulders are broad, not extreme, but there is definite padding....Pierre Cardin refers to his new silhouette as 'an upside-down triangle',...designing clothes with broader shoulders...Yves Saint Laurent...is building [shoulders] up again....Bill Kaiserman advocates...'strong but not extreme' shoulders....Lee Wright designs...clothing...inspired by the Italian V-silhouette... showing exaggeratedly padded shoulders that tapered to low closuresRussell Mary Men's Fashion The New York Times 1979-03-04 SM19 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/03/04/archives/mens-fashion-in-italy-they-suit-themselves-and-the-world.html 2021-12-10 Armani's 1979 jackets are wide at the shoulder with a narrowing at the waist and low button closing.Alexander Ron Shoulder It, Men: Padding is Back The New York Times 1979-09-16 WC21 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/09/16/archives/westchester-weekly-shoulder-it-men-padding-is-back-american.html 2021-12-10 Calvin Klein's...buttons are fashionably low... at narrow, often ventless hipsAlexander Ron Shoulder It, Men: Padding is Back The New York Times 1979-09-16 WC21 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/09/16/archives/westchester-weekly-shoulder-it-men-padding-is-back-american.html 2021-12-10 ...[J]acket bottoms are close‐fitting.Alexander Ron Shoulder It, Men: Padding is Back The New York Times 1979-09-16 WC21 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/09/16/archives/westchester-weekly-shoulder-it-men-padding-is-back-american.html 2021-12-10 Bill Kaiserman advocates slightly shorter and always ventless jackets...Hardy Amies...emphasizes double-breasted suits with surprisingly...narrow lapels on unvented, shoulder‐expressed jackets. in jacketsHyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Broad Shouldered Paris The Washington Post 1979-04-09 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/04/09/broad-shouldered-paris/577026de-3fea-4114-b771-eaced95767d6/ 2022-04-04 Claude Montana, who was the first with the biggest shoulders in Paris,...padded the shoulders and sleeves of his...windbreaker... and suits, along with trousers that were straight-legged or tapered to narrow ankles.Anderson Keith The Gentlemen's Guide: Who Says Nothing Ever Happens in Men's Fashion? The Dallas Morning News 1979-06-06 12C Jackets are getting broader at the shoulders and slim about the hips; teamed with the narrow-ankle trousers, it adds up to a wedge shape....The Wedge:...[M]ajor designers...began promoting a new silhouette with larger lapels and sci-fi proportions. Jackets were also sometimes presented short and boxy like spencers or bellhop jackets.Steck Duncan G. 1979 Collier's Yearbook Covering the Year 1978 Crowell-Collier Publishing Company 252 Fashion Pierre Cardin introduced...shorter and boxier jackets... Unlike in womenswear, the exaggerated shoulders didn't appear in shirts but only in jackets and coats, with avant-garde designers like Thierry Mugler also presenting an occasional retro-futuristic (like something from 1950s sci-fi), outer space-looking jumpsuit with big shoulders, often marked with trapunto stitching, a style seen only on the most avant-garde. Lapels and ties for these new jacket styles were initially mostly narrow, said to help emphasize the increased shoulder width,Alexander Ron Shoulder It, Men: Padding is Back The New York Times 1979-09-16 WC21 https://www.nytimes.com/1979/09/16/archives/westchester-weekly-shoulder-it-men-padding-is-back-american.html 2021-12-10 Pierre Cardin...is designing clothes with broader shoulders and cutting back lapel widths to make the shoulders more pronounced... but the most influential menswear designer of the time, Giorgio Armani, relatively quickly widened his lapels and ties – not as wide as in the early seventies, though, more like the 1940s.La Ferla Ruth Fashion: Sizing Up Giorgio Armani The New York Times 1990-10-21 55 https://www.nytimes.com/1990/10/21/magazine/fashion-sizing-up-giorgio-armani.html 2021-12-10 At the end of the 1970's, Armani altered his style dramatically. Taking his design cues from Hollywood costumes of the 1930's and 40's, he widened the lapels of his suits and extended and padded the shoulders.Hyde Nina S. Nina Hyde Fashion Notes The Washington Post 1979-02-18 https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1979/02/18/fashion-notes/f08fde5b-950a-4830-890e-80f39edaa537/ 2022-03-16 ...[J]ust as the eye is getting attuned to the smaller proportions in menswear -- narrower lapels, skinnier ties, shorter collars, slender-er belts and skimpier cuffs -- Italian designer Giorgio Armani, the father of this look, has swung to wider lapels, long pointy shirt collars and bottle shaped ties. As the 1970s became the 1980s, both narrow and wider 1940s-width lapels and ties could be seen simultaneously. In 1979, though, these big-shouldered styles were just starting to be seen and wouldn't yet be common except among the avant-garde. Youth fashion Mods During the early 1970s, the Northern soul and suedehead subcultures emerged in response to the psychedelic rock, Bohemian and hippie influences on the mainstream peacock mod subculture. Seeking a return to the music and fashions of the mid and late 1960s, members of these British subcultures wore Ben Sherman shirts, slim fit pants, tank top sweaters, turtleneck sweaters, vintage striped boating blazers, basket weave brogue shoes, black leather driving gloves, pork pie hats, Irish walking hats, and loose fitting Oxford bags for dancing.[ Keith Rylatt and Phil Scott. Central 1179: The Story of Manchester's Twisted Wheel Club. BeeCool Publishing. 2001] Secondhand mod clothing was also worn by many early garage punk and protopunk bands from the mid-1970s onwards, especially the Flamin Groovies and Television due to its cheapness and wide availability. The release of the cult film Quadrophenia in 1978 sparked a large scale Mod revival among a younger generation of Lambretta and Vespa scooter enthusiasts influenced by punk rock and new wave music.http://www.chrishunt.biz/features08.html Chris Hunt – Mod Revival Chrishunt.biz 5 December 2017 25 May 2012 https://web.archive.org/web/20120525102444/http://www.chrishunt.biz/features08.html dead Teddy boys thumb|Typical mid to late 1970s Ted gear, as worn by Shakin' Stevens. Due to a resurgence in nostalgia for the 1950s, the Teddy boy subculture made a comeback in the UK during the early 1970s. A similar rockabilly subculture known as Raggare underwent a revival in Sweden and Germany at the same time. Brothel creepers, drainpipe trousers, bolo ties and drape jackets were popular, typically with contrasting velvet collars and cuffs.https://www.vice.com/en/article/what-will-become-of-the-teddy-boys-282/ Greased Quiffs and Flick Knives: Growing Up Teddy Boy in 1970s England 2 February 2015 Vice.com 5 December 2017 Influenced by glam rock bands like Showaddywaddy, the Teds of the 1970s wore bright colors like electric blue, leopardskin or brocade waistcoats, and styled their hair with hair spray rather than brylcreem.http://www.edwardianteddyboy.com/page39.htm The Edwardian Teddy Boy – Leeds Teddy Boys Edwardianteddyboy.com 5 December 2017 5 December 2017 https://web.archive.org/web/20171205194731/http://www.edwardianteddyboy.com/page39.htm dead In the late 1970s the Teds became the arch enemies of the punk subculture and Mod revivalists. Hippies thumb|right|British rock band Killing Floor, 1971. One of the most ubiquitous subcultures of the early and mid-1970s were the hippies. Typically middle class youths from Britain, America and New Zealand, these practitioners of free love favored a unisex look with long hair, tie dye and flower power motifs, Bob Dylan caps, kurtas, hemp waistcoats, baja jackets, bell bottoms, sandals, and maxi skirts for the girls.http://www.sixtiespix.com/iconic-general-t.html Photos of hippies Sixtiespix.com 5 December 2017 3 July 2016 https://web.archive.org/web/20160703213944/http://www.sixtiespix.com/iconic-general-t.html dead Due to the United States' active involvement in the Vietnam War from 1955 to 1975, American teenagers wanted to make an antiwar counterculture statement through the way they dressed. Old military uniforms and washed off navy bell-bottoms were commonly purchased from secondhand stores, and then embellished with floral embroideries and brightly colored peace symbol patches at home.http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Troubled-Times-1961-79.html Troubled Times: 1961–79 – Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Fashionencyclopedia.com 2017-10-07 In reaction to the conservative ivy league fashions favored by their parents, American hippies of both sexes rejected designer brands in favor of a unisex style, often making use of corduroy, hemp, and vintage clothing from charity shops.https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/bell-bottoms Bell-Bottoms facts, information, pictures Encyclopedia.com articles about Bell-Bottoms Encyclopedia.com 2017-10-07 Although glam rock had largely supplanted the hippie movement in urban areas during the mid to late 70s, offshoots such as the New Age travellers, Freak scene, Nambassa housetruckershttp://www.nambassa.com/ https://web.archive.org/web/20171011021811/http://www.nambassa.com/ Nambassa Nambassa.com 5 December 2017 October 11, 2017 and surfers continued until the 1990s. Heavy metal During the early and mid-1970s, members of the hard rock and heavy metal subculture favored typical hippie fashions like earth tones, tie dye T-shirts, and flared trousers of the type worn on stage by Jethro Tull or Led Zeppelin. This changed later in the decade, when many fans of Judas Priest, AC/DC and Meat Loaf began imitating the clothing of greasers, outlaw bikers, punk rockers and leathermen due to the association of such fashions with toughness.https://books.google.com/books?id=D6tGaphXVlEC&q=%22heavy+metal+fashion%22+biker&pg=PA30 Heavy Metal: The Music And Its Culture Deena Weinstein 5 August 2009 Da Capo Press 978-0-7867-5103-7 Typical heavy metal fashions in the UK, US and Australia included faded jeans, leather battle jackets, combat boots, studded belts, black leather jacketshttps://books.google.com/books?id=52hFCQAAQBAJ&q=heavy+metal+fashion&pg=PA123 Encyclopedia of Heavy Metal Music William Phillips Brian Cogan 20 March 2009 ABC-CLIO 978-0-313-34801-3 like the Schott Perfecto, and iron crosses frequently pilfered from their father's war souvenirs. Beards, moustaches and shoulder length hair were popular among men, while female metal fans sometimes imitated the brightly dyed, teased and backcombed punk hair of the late 1970s. Black power Urban African American youths frequently imitated the paramilitary uniforms of the Fruit of Islam, anti-colonialist African insurgents, and early 1970s black power groups like the Black Panthers.https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/higher/history/usa/postwar/revision/4/ Higher Bitesize History – Post-war race relations : Revision, Page4 BBC 5 December 2017https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/book-about-black-power-lies-next-to-a-pair-of-running-shoes-news-photo/2666038 Black Power 28 October 2003 Getty Images 5 December 2017 The Panthers' French counterparts called themselves the Del Vikings and Black Dragons, listened to rockabilly and punk rock, and fought against neonazi skinheads during the late 70s and early 80s.http://www.okayafrica.com/featured/black-punk-black-dragons-france/ Black Dragons: The Black Punk Gang Who Fought Racism & Skinheads in 1980s France 10 August 2016 Okayafrica.com 5 December 2017 Typical clothing included black leather jackets, vests, black driving gloves,http://hoover.archives.gov/exhibits/africanamerican/blackpower/ In Search of African America: One Collector's Experience. An exhibit at the Herbert Hoover Presidential Museum. Hoover.archives.gov 5 December 2017 https://web.archive.org/web/20171113181542/https://hoover.archives.gov/exhibits/africanamerican/blackpower/ 13 November 2017 dead leather peaked caps embellished with chains and metal studs, African folk costume like the fez or dashiki, traditional African colors like black, red, yellow or green, Ancient Egyptian jewelry such as the Ankh, gold chains, and railroad stripe pants for women.https://books.google.com/books?id=w9oDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA134 Ebony 1 September 1969 Johnson Publishing Company Due to the poverty in the ghetto, black children often wore secondhand clothing that was too big or too small, inspiring the baggy pants worn as hip-hop fashion during the 1980s and 1990s. In the UK, US and Jamaica Afro hairhttps://books.google.com/books?id=RtcDAAAAMBAJ&q=afro+hair&pg=PA132 Ebony 132 1 February 1973 Johnson Publishing Company and dreadlocks became popular from 1972 to 1976 among Motown, soul music and reggae fans, as a rejection of the straightened hairstyles associated with white culture.https://books.google.com/books?id=F1sDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA16 Jet 13 July 1972 5 December 2017 16 Johnson Publishing Company Google Books Cholos thumb|right|Three Los Angeles Chicanos in 1974. Following the recession of 1973, the zoot suited pachuco look declined due to its association with comedic Blaxploitation pimps.https://books.google.com/books?id=TwB02OUHnhgC&pg=PA103 Undressing Cinema: Clothing and identity in the movies Stella Bruzzi 12 October 2012 Routledge 978-1-134-77059-5 Instead, working class Mexican youths began dressing in a more casual style inspired by the clothing of prison gangs, left wing counterculture groups like the Brown berets,https://books.google.com/books?id=2ydWBQAAQBAJ&pg=PA76 Rethinking the Chicano Movement Marc Simon Rodriguez 13 November 2014 Routledge 978-1-136-17537-4 the antiwar movement,https://depts.washington.edu/civilr/mecha_intro.htm Chicano Movement of Washington State History Project Depts.washington.edu 5 December 2017 and the 1960s greaser subculture. White T-shirts, winklepickers, double denim "Texan tuxedos," ringer Tees, plaid shirts, Aviators, black wool tuques, brown berets,http://www.fightbacknews.org/2003winter/brownberets.htm Young Chicano Revolutionaries Fightbacknews.org 5 December 2017 12 July 2015 https://web.archive.org/web/20150712223510/http://www.fightbacknews.org/2003winter/brownberets.htm dead green military surplus field jackets, sheepskin coats, Castro hats, untucked white shirts,http://tucsoncitizen.com/morgue/2009/03/09/111691-that-60s-story-chicanos-y-the-citizen/ That '60s story: Chicanos y the Citizen – Tucson Citizen Morgue, Part 1 (2006–2009) Tucsoncitizen.com 5 December 2017 9 October 2016 https://web.archive.org/web/20161009183216/http://tucsoncitizen.com/morgue/2009/03/09/111691-that-60s-story-chicanos-y-the-citizen/ dead and khaki Dickies pants were commonly worn by these cholos and chicanos, together with slicked-back pompadour hairstyles and large sideburns. Punks Punk rock was a musical genre that greatly influenced fashion in the late 1970s. A great deal of punk fashion from the 1970s was based on the designs of Vivienne Westwood and her partner Malcolm McLaren, McLaren opened a stall at the back of vintage American clothing store, which taken over 430 King's Road and called it 'Let it Rock'. By 1974, 430 had renamed the store, which became famous as 'SEX'. McLaren described SEX as 'a haven phenomenon known as punk rock.'Vivienne Westwood: 34 years in fashion Wilcox Claire V&A PUBLICATIONS 12–13 Punk emerged in London, and spread into the United States.February 2025 A complex amalgam of various stylistic influences, Punk had its roots in the streets of London and the music scene of New York. Street punk fashion generally consisted of ripped clothes, black turtlenecks, drainpipe jeans, tight leather pants, leather jackets (often embellished with chains, spikes, studs, and paint), jackets and shirts with taboo images or messages, dog collars, safety pins, kilts, and Doc Martens.http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Doc-Martens.html Doc Martens 27 July 2014 A tamer, less threatening version of the Punk style called "New Wave", which featured jagged hems on clothing and more elaborate embroidery went mainstream in the early 1980s.http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Punk.html Punk 27 July 2014 Hairstyles Women's hairstyles thumb|upright=0.7|left|Singer Cher in 1971. In the 1970s, women's hair was usually worn long with a centre parting Throughout much of the decade, women and teenage girls wore their hair long, with a centre or side parting. Harper's Bazaars Lindy Segal attributed the popularity of long, straight hairstyles in the 1970s to Cher, whose distinctive look became associated with what is now sometimes referred to as "Cher hair".https://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/g39034982/1970s-hairstyles/ The Most Iconic 1970s Hairstyles We Still Want to Wear Now 17 February 2022 Other hairstyles of the early to mid-1970s included the wavy "gypsy" cut, the layered shag, and the "flicked" style, popularly referred to as "wings", in which the hair was flicked into resembling small wings at the temples. This look was popularised by the stars of the television series Charlie's Angels. Blonde-streaked or "frosted" hair was also popular. In 1977, punk singer Debbie Harry of Blondie sparked a new trend with her shoulder-length, dyed platinum blonde hair worn with a long fringe (bangs), popular in the late 1970s. For black people in the United States and elsewhere, the afro was worn by both sexes throughout the decade. As the Afro entered the mainstream, Afro-enhancing products and Afro wigs emerged in the African-American beauty industry.Walker Susannah 2000 Black Is Profitable: The Commodification of the Afro, 1960—1975 https://www.jstor.org/stable/23699596 Enterprise & Society 1 3 536–564 10.1093/es/1.3.536 23699596 1467-2227 subscription These wigs were created and advertised as a bolder look that could conveniently be removed and put on for a night out. For Black women, it became a staple in disco, with disco divas like Diana Ross and Gloria Gaynor adopting it in the 1970s. Afros were also occasionally sported by Whites, especially Jewish AmericansMurray Chass, "Harvard's Hairy Five Makes Some Foes Bristle", The New York Times, 28 February 1971, pg. S4. as an alternative to the uniform long, straight hair which was a fashion mainstay until the arrival of punk and the "disco look" when hair became shorter and centre partings were no longer the mode. Among the most iconic women's hairstyle of the 1970s is the Farrah Fawcett hairstyle. Popularized in 1976, the hairstyle was heavily imitated by many American women and girls. It incorporated waves, curls, and layers. The style mostly worn with bangs, but could also be worn with a side part. To make it even more stylish, women and girls would frost their hair with blonde streaks.http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Farrah-Fawcett-Look.html Farrah Fawcett Look Fashionenecyclopedia.com 26 July 2014 By the late 1970s, the popularity of braided hairstyles for Afro-textured hair, such as cornrows, increased. These looks are exemplified by vocal group Sister Sledge on their 1979 He's the Greatest Dancer album cover. Men's hairstyles thumb|upright=0.6|Steve McQueen with sideburns, 1972. thumb|upright=0.6|Footballer George Best wore long hair in 1976. Continuing on from the 1960s, the ducktail and Pompadour hairstyle (then known as the "Elvis Presley hairstyle") were popular among young Italian-American and Mexican-American men in big cities like New York. Large quantities of grease or brylcreem was normally used to keep the hair in place. The early and mid-1970s generally featured longer hair on men, as way of rebelling against the social norms of years past.http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Long-Hair-for-Men.html Long Hair for Men Fashionenecyclopedia.com 26 July 2014 Sideburns were also worn around the same time. Some of the most popular hairstyles for men include "Long and Luscious" hairstyle, mod haircut, and the "buzzcut" hairstyle popularised by action heroes like Steve McQueen. In the late 1970s, men went for the chop, ranging from crew cuts, to buzz cuts, to a shag. This was mainly done for an athletic look, and sideburns and facial hair went out of style. The afro, if able to be grown, was often a quintessential part of a man's disco club or roller disco ensemble. As popular male hairstyles increased in length in the late 1960s, so too did hair within the male African-American community,Garland, Phyl, "Is The Afro On Its Way Out?", Ebony, February 1973. Retrieved February 20, 2010. thereby the early 1970s saw an expansion in the overall size of afros. Examples of male celebrities with afros included Maurice White of Earth, Wind, & Fire, Jimi Hendrix, and male members of the Jackson 5.Hair Designing - A Complete Course, by Various, Global Media, 2007, section 2. Retrieved February 20, 2010.Jaggi Maya April 29, 2000 The return of Mama Africa The Guardian As popular interest in disco music increased, the afro became more of a mainstream look; however, its adoption by people of non-African descent caused the afro to lose its radical political edge (having been previously associated with the Black Panthers during the 1960s). Sherrow, Victoria, Encyclopedia of hair: a cultural history, Greenwood Publishing Group, 2006, pp. 21–23. Retrieved February 20, 2010. Additionally, as with women, the 1970s saw an increase in the popularity of men's braided hairstyles such as cornrows, exemplified by disco-pop musician Rick James. Makeup and cosmetics Cosmetics in the 1970s thumb|upright=0.6|Actress Camille Keaton in 1972. Throughout most of the decade, women preferred light, natural-looking make-up for the daytime. Cosmetics in the 1970s reflected the contradictory roles ascribed for the modern woman.De Castelbajac, pp. 147–48. For the first time since 1900, make-up was chosen situationally, rather than in response to monolithic trends. The era's two primary visions were the daytime "natural look" presented by American designers and Cosmopolitan'' magazine, and the evening aesthetic of sexualized glamour presented by European designers and fashion photographers. In the periphery, punk and glam were also influential. The struggling cosmetics industry attempted to make a comeback, using new marketing and manufacturing practices. Image gallery Images representing the fashion trends of the 1970s. See also 1970s Fashion 1980s in fashion 1990s in fashion 2000s in fashion Deconstruction (fashion) Notes References External links 1970s Fashion History 20th Century Fashion History: 1970s Men's Fashion History from the 1970s Fashion Trends in the 1970s It Came from the 1971 Sears Catalog 70’s Bollywood Retro Fashion: Iconic Style Revival Children's clothing from the 1970s https://web.archive.org/web/20090213113438/http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/museum/collections/online/Results.cfm?ParentID=378553 13 February 2009 Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories Victoria and Albert Museum http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/20th_century_fashion_drawing_illustration/1970s/index.html 1970s – 20th Century Fashion Drawing and Illustration 3 April 2011 https://web.archive.org/web/20110108030021/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/20th_century_fashion_drawing_illustration/1970s/index.html 8 January 2011 dead Marshmallow Shoes