1965 Indian Everest Expedition

First successful Indian summit of Mount Everest October 2020 October 2020 thumb|250px|Mount Everest thumb|1965 Indian stamp dedicated to the 1965 Everest Expedition thumb|The Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modi meets the members of 1965 expedition in New Delhi on 20 May 2015, the 50th anniversary of the ascent The 1965 Indian Everest Expedition reached the summit of Mount Everest on 20 May 1965. It was the first successful scaling of the mountain by an Indian climbing expedition.https://www.everesthistory.com/everestsummits/summits60.htm Indian Everest Expedition 1965- www.everesthistory.com After the first conquest of Mount Everest in 1953 by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, Indian military forces made several attempts to conquer the summit. The first expedition by the Indian Army, which was led by Brigadier Gyan Singh in 1960, failed. Climbers Colonel Narendra Kumar, Sonam Gyatso, and Sherpa Nawang Gombu reached 28300 ft, just 700 ft from the summit, but had to turn back due to extremely bad weather.https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/22/2/indians-on-mount-everest-1960/ Failed Indian attempt on Mount Everest-1960 - www.himalayanclub.org The second expedition by the Indian Army, led by Major John Diaz in 1962, also failed. Captain Mohan Singh Kohli, Sonam Gyatso, and Hari Dang got to almost 400 ft below the summit at 28600 ft, but also had to give up due to bad weather.https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/24/4/everest-1962/ Failed Indian attempt on Mount Everest-1962 www.himalayanclub.org Mohan Singh Kohli was a member of both these expeditions. Preparation In 1965, the third Indian expedition, which was led by Mohan Singh Kohli and his deputy Colonel Narendra "Bull" Kumar, included 21 core members of the expedition, and around 50 climbing sherpas. The mission was sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering foundation. The team started their journey from New Delhi on 21 February and reached on Jaynagar railway station in Bihar, the Indo-Nepal border on 24 February. They arranged for 25 tons of materials for the mission from various cities of India, including food, cloths, sleeping tents, oxygen cylinders and mountaineering equipment. All materials were carried from Jaynagar railway station to base camp by 800 porters including women. The initial attempt was at the end of April and due to bad weather they came back to base camp and wait two weeks for better weather. Towards the end of May, expedition members scaled Mount Everest in four successive attempts, putting nine climbers on to the summit and so setting a world record which was unbroken until the 1978 German-French Expedition 13 years later.477 ama Reaching the summit India became the fourth country to scale Mount Everest. On 20 May 1965, Lt Col Avatar. S. Cheema and Nawang Gombu Sherpa reached the summit of Mount Everest, becoming the first Indians to do so. This was the second time that Nawang Gombu Sherpa had climbed Mount Everest. The first was with an American expedition in 1963. He became the first person to climb the mountain twice.Unsworth Walt Everest London Allen Lane 1981 0713911085 https://archive.org/stream/in.ernet.dli.2015.65800/2015.65800.Everest_djvu.txt 5 February 2025393 ama Two days later, on 22 May, Sonam Gyatso and Sonam Wangyal reached the summit and C. P. Vohra, Ang Kami Sherpa reached it on 24 May.393 ama On 29 May, 12 years to the day from the first ascent of Mount Everest, Major H. P. S. Ahluwalia, H. C. S. Rawat, Phu Dorjee Sherpa reached the summit. This was the first time three climbers had stood on the summit together.https://www.istampgallery.com/indian-mount-everest-expedition/ First successful Indian Expedition of 1965 www.istampgallery.com 15 August 1965 Adminhttps://www.thebetterindia.com/25939/did-you-know-that-50-years-ago-9-indians-held-a-record-for-climbing-mount-everest/ First successful Indian Expedition of 1965 www.thebetterindia.com 17 June 2015 In all, eleven people were scheduled to climb the mountain in five attempts, but Captain HV Bahuguna and Major BP Singh were forced to retreat due to physical difficulties.191 & 195 ama Reception and honours Mohan Singh Kohli is best known as leader of the Indian Everest Expedition 1965. The achievement electrified the nation; people danced in the streets. Nine climbers reached the summit, creating a world record that India held for 13 years. On return of the team from Nepal to India, acting Prime Minister Gulzarilal Nanda headed the reception at the airport (Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri was abroad).214 ama https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/may-20-the-day-india-broke-everest-jinx/articleshow/47336398.cms 5 February 2025 Times of India The Day India Broke Everest Jinx 19 May 2015 Jaideep Mazumdar The entire team were given an Arjuna Award. http://www.sportsauthorityofindia.nic.in/showfile.asp?link_temp_id=560 Arjuna Award for The first Indians on Everest on 1965- www.sportsauthorityofindia.nic.in 8 August 2019 8 August 2019 https://web.archive.org/web/20190808121806/http://www.sportsauthorityofindia.nic.in/showfile.asp%3Flink_temp_id%3D560 dead Three members, including the team leader, were awarded the Padma Bhushan and the leader and eight team members were given the Padma Shree. http://www.dashboard-padmaawards.gov.in/?Year=1965-1965&Award=Padma%20Bhushan&Field=Sports Padma Bhushan for The first Indians on Everest on 1965- www.dashboard-padmaawards.gov.in 8 August 2019 22 January 2021 https://web.archive.org/web/20210122011902/http://www.dashboard-padmaawards.gov.in/?Year=1965-1965&Award=Padma%20Bhushan&Field=Sports dead http://www.dashboard-padmaawards.gov.in/?Year=1965-1965&Award=Padma%20Shri&Field=Sports Padma Shree for The first Indians on Everest on 1965- www.dashboard-padmaawards.gov.in 8 August 2019 21 October 2020 https://web.archive.org/web/20201021173851/http://www.dashboard-padmaawards.gov.in/?Year=1965-1965&Award=Padma%20Shri&Field=Sports dead Indira Gandhi paid tribute saying: “The record of Commander Kohli's expedition will find special mention in history. It was a masterpiece of planning, organisation, teamwork, individual effort and leadership”.viii, Indira Gandhi's Foreword ama She described the 1965 success as one of India's six major achievements after independence. A full-length film on the expedition with music by Shankar Jaikishan was released all over India and abroad.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjF7ZzEJPhg Indian Everest Expedition 1965- www.youtube.com 21 May 2016 The story of the achievement was serialized in several national newspapers and magazines. Mohan Singh Kohli and other members of the team were felicitated at Brussels, Paris, Geneva and Rome. Tenzing Norgay accompanied Captain Kohli to several countries. In India, Chief Ministers of almost all the states invited the team to their capitals and honoured them at state and civic receptions. Records of the expedition First Indian team to successfully climb the Everest First time three climbers stood on the summit together First time nine climbers reached the summit, setting a world record which India held for 13 years First man to climb Everest twice – Nawang Gombu Sherpa First time that the oldest (Sonam Gyatso at 42) and the youngest (Sonam Wangyal at 23) climbed Everest together First Nepalese to climb Everest – Phu Dorjee Sherpa https://www.swadeshnepal.net/29/05/2023/1598/ 5 February 2025 Swadesh Nepal 29 May 2023 Today 70th Everest Day celebrating, Phu Dorjee sherpa first Nepali to scale Everest Team Team leader Captain M S Kohli Deputy leader Colonel Narendra "Bull" Kumar Avtar Singh Cheema Nawang Gombu Sherpa Sonam Gyatso Sonam Wangyal C. P. Vohra Ang Kami H. P. S. Ahluwalia H. C. S. Rawat Phu Dorjee Sherpa Captain Harsh Vardhan Bahuguna Major B P Singh Gurdial Singh Major Mulk Raj Captain J C Joshi Lt. B N Rana Captain A K Chakravarty( Doctor) Dr. D V Telang (Doctor) G S Bhanghu (Wireless Operator) C.Balakrishnan (Wireless Operator) Captain Soares (doctor) returned due to illness Nine Atop Everest: Spectacular Indian Ascent 9788173871115 Kohli M. S. December 2000 Indus https://books.google.com/books?id=KHkwqaXLmooC 5 February 2025 https://www.livemint.com/Leisure/ZDIwIHEyFLl1y3lVvqtQ5J/The-first-Indians-on-Everest.html 5 February 2025 Mint The first Indians on Everest Padmaparna Ghosh Rudraneil Sengupta 25 May 2015https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/26/2/nine-atop-everest/ Nine Atop Everest Himalayan Journal 1970GeogJ.136..621S 5 February 2025 Shipton Eric Kohli M. S. 1970 136 4 621 10.2307/1796212 1796212 subscription Sherpas About 50 Sherpas participated in the mission. Many of them had previously participated in other Everest missions. One of the sherpas, Phu Dorjee Sherpa, reached the summit.393 ama Ang tshering (Sirdar) Phu Dorjee Sherpa (Assistant Sirdar) General Thondup Nawang Hilla Dawa Norbu I Ang Dava IV Ila Tshering Ang tshering II Tenzing Nindra Ang Nyima Tenzing Gyatso Nima Tenzing Gunden Passand Tendi Mingma Tshering (Orderly of Captain M S Kohli) Pemba Sunder Sikhu Phorche Dahnu Lobsang Sherpa See also Indian summiters of Mount Everest - Year wise List of Mount Everest records of India List of Mount Everest records List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit References External links Indian Everest Expedition 1965 (25:44 min) on YouTube. Category:Mount Everest expeditions Category:1965 in India Category:1965 in Nepal Category:India–Nepal sports relations Category:Mountaineering in India