1952 Swiss Mount Everest expedition

Mountaineering expedition in 1952 thumb| March 2020 The 1952 Swiss Mount Everest expedition was an attempt to summit Mount Everest. Led by Edouard Wyss-Dunant, the expedition, which included Tenzing Norgay, reached a height of 8595 m ft 0 on the southeast ridge, setting a new climbing altitude record and opening up a new route to Mount Everest and paving the way for further successes by other expeditions.West John B. Failure on Everest: The Oxygen Equipment of the Spring 1952 Swiss Expedition High Altitude Medicine & Biology Mary Ann Liebert Inc 4 1 2003 1527-0297 10.1089/152702903321488960 39–43 12713710 Norgay successfully summited the mountain the following year with Sir Edmund Hillary, the first successful expedition. Origins Tibet was closed to foreigners, but Nepal had opened up its borders to foreigners in 1950. In 1951, Eric Shipton's British-New Zealand reconnaissance climbed the Khumbu Icefall and reached the elusive Western Cwm, proving that Everest could be climbed from Nepal. The Nepalese government gave the 1952 expedition permit to the Swiss. Organisation Edouard Wyss-Dunant was appointed to lead the expedition. The other Swiss members were Rene Aubert, Leon Flory, André Roch and Raymond Lambert, who joined despite having suffered amputations of frostbitten toes. All the Swiss expedition members were from Geneva. Most of the Swiss belonged to the exclusive L'Androsace climbing club and knew each other well. The city and canton of Geneva provided moral and financial support for the expedition, and the University of Geneva provided the scientific contingent.Excerpt from: Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1939 to 1970. Published in Zurich in 1972 http://www.sfar-evev06.ch/en/expeditions/everest52f.html https://web.archive.org/web/20071118032851/http://www.sfar-evev06.ch/en/expeditions/everest52f.html 2007-11-18 2011-01-09 Goals The primary objectives of the mountaineering team included exploring access to the South Col, conquering the intricate Khumbu Icefall, and potentially advancing to the South Col. John Hunt, who met the team in Zurich upon their return, noted that following the Swiss Expedition's near-success in the spring, they resolved to make another summit attempt in the autumn. However, due to the decision being made in June, the second team arrived too late, facing the harsh winter winds. This account contradicts another reference stating that "no attempt at an ascent of Everest was ever under consideration in this case".1972 Excerpt from: Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1939 to 1970 http://www.sfar-evev06.ch/en/expeditions/everest52f.html https://web.archive.org/web/20110308015050/http://www.sfar-evev06.ch/en/expeditions/everest52f.html 8 March 2011 Zurich Ascent Building on Shipton's experience, the Genevans reached the head of the Western Cwm and climbed the huge face above to the desolate, wind-swept plateau of the South Col. Three Swiss climbers and the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay continued towards the summit, pitching a tent at 8,400 meters. Two returned, leaving Tenzing and Lambert, who had become firm friends, to make a summit attempt. High-altitude mountaineering in 1952 was still in its infancy and their organisation and technology proved insufficient. Apart from Tenzing, the Sherpas had little experience. Tenzing and Lambert now had to spend a night at 27500 ft with no sleeping bags and no stove, producing a trickle of drinking water by melting snow over a candle. Edmund Hillary recalled in 1953 "an incredibly lonely sight, the battered framework of the tent that Tenzing and Raymond Lambert of the 1952 Swiss expedition pitched over a year before and where they had spent an extremely uncomfortable night without food, without drink, and without sleeping bags. What a tough couple they had been, but perhaps not very well organised." Hillary Edmund View from the Summit 1999 Doubleday/Random House Auckland 0-908821-09-3 9,10 Hillary thought that Tenzing and Lambert were not sufficiently hydrated, having relied on cheese and snow melted over a candle for sustenance (he insisted on everyone keeping their fluids up by melting snow on a Primus stove for water). Little Paul After Everest: Inside the private world of Edmund Hillary 2012 Allen & Unwin Sydney, Australia 978-1-877505-20-1 29 registration https://archive.org/details/aftereverestinsi0000litt/page/29 This was also the conclusion of Griffith Pugh in 1952. Their oxygen sets operated poorly when breathing heavily and when the two men continued in the morning, they were effectively climbing without oxygen. They struggled onwards, at times crawling while hindered by the dead weight of their oxygen sets, finally halting near 8595 m, about 250 m short of the summit. Cailliez Jean-Claude Raymond LAMBERT (1914-97) courageux & émérite alpiniste, moniteur de vol en montagne, co-patron de SATA Le site des pionniers de l’aéronautique à Genève 22 September 2007 http://www.pionnair-ge.com/spip1/spip.php?article317 2008-07-21 The sets gave some relief at rest but the valves resisted the passage of oxygen with violent breathing at high altitude. The autumn expedition had two new types of open-circuit oxygen equipment; the better Drägerwerk set was based on apparatus used by pilots, and the oxygen supply could be selected to be between 2 and 4 litres a minute. The Swiss might have reached the summit in the spring if the new Drägerwerk sets had been used.Gill 2017 172,176,177 Results Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgay reached a height of about 8595 m ft 0 on the south-eastern ridge, setting a new climbing altitude record (assuming that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did not ascend any higher during their expedition in 1924). Tenzing's experience was useful when he was hired to be part of the British expedition in 1953, during which he reached the summit with Sir Edmund Hillary.http://imagingeverest.rgs.org/Concepts/Virtual_Everest/-116.html Tenzing Norgay GM The Royal Geographical Society Imaging Everest 2007-06-21 dead https://web.archive.org/web/20070414143647/http://imagingeverest.rgs.org/Concepts/Virtual_Everest/-116.html 2007-04-14 This first Swiss expedition to Mount Everest was considered successful. It had opened a new route to the peak of Everest, and it had reached a record height on the southwestern ridge in difficult conditions. In the opinion of the critical Marcel Kurz, the expedition was almost a victory. They had seen from close-up that the route to the South Summit had no insurmountable barriers, and only the last 90 m ft to the summit remained unknown. The spring expedition might have reached the summit using the Draeger oxygen sets used for the autumn expedition. They showed the British that their route in 1953 should be up the Lhotse Face, not the couloirs, with a high camp on the South Col (which meant more stores to be carried higher). See the Appendix for the comparison of the two expeditions.Gill 2017 177,178,186 The expedition named the Geneva Spur rock formation, between the Western Cwm and the South Col.Bear Grylls - The Kid Who Climbed Everest (2004) - Page 226 (Google Books link)] During the 1956 Swiss Everest–Lhotse expedition, Geneva Spur was the location of the last high camp before Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss achieved the first ascent of the Lhotse summit, on May 18, 1956.Aargauer Zeitung, 25 April 2006 Autumn expedition There was a second Swiss expedition in the autumn of 1952, after the monsoon, the first serious attempt to climb Everest at that time of year (having received permission from the Nepalese government to go during the whole year). A party including Lambert, Tenzing and others made it to the South Col, but was forced back by extremely cold weather after reaching an altitude of 8100 m ft 0.Tenzing Norgay and James Ramsey Ullman, Tiger of the Snows (1955, also published as Man of Everest) The autumn expedition was only decided in June, so the second party arrived too late, when winter winds were buffeting the mountain. They held out in terrible conditions of discomfort and mental strain, but never succeeded in getting within striking distance of the summit (Hunt had decided that if the 1953 British expedition failed, they would also make another post-monsoon attempt). Hunt John The Ascent of Everest https://archive.org/details/ascentofeverest0000hunt registration 1953 Hodder & Stoughton London 51, 52 Appendix A comparison of the 1952 Swiss and 1953 British expeditions.Gill 2017 186 Swiss; spring 1952British; spring 1953 Climbers 9 12High-altitude Sherpas 14 28Oxygen 20,000 litres 193,000 litresWeight of stores and equipment 4½ tons (4570 kg) 7½ tons (7615 kg)Arrival in Namche 14 April 25 MarchMan-days on & above South Col 18 33Route up Lhotse face Ice couloir with no camps Lhotse Glacier with two camps References Gill Michael Edmund Hillary: A Biography 2017 Potton & Burton Nelson, NZ 978-0-947503-38-3 1952 Everest Switzerland Category:Mountaineering in Switzerland Category:Nepal–Switzerland relations Category:Tenzing Norgay